Forgot to mention cost - my garage will do four rotors for $30. Perhaps a small
price to pay, especially since we're only talking about two - on this list
anyway.
Joe Curry wrote:
> Michael,
> If you have a machine handy, it's probably a pretty good idea. However,
> since most of us don't, the best alternative is to install them and spin
> the wheel to see if there is any noticable variance (wobble) as it
> spins.
>
> I have replaced several disks in the past few years and I haven't had
> any problems so far. (Knock on wood).
>
> Joe
>
> Michael Ferguson wrote:
> >
> > Re: Rotors
> >
> > My local mechanic (non-LBC) tells me that, whenever they install new
>rotors, they ALWAYS put them on the machine to make sure they are true.
>Apparently, in their experience, new rotors are not always true so they turn
>them just a little to be on the safe side. Anyone have an opinion on this?
> >
> > Joe Curry wrote:
> >
> > > Hassan, Erkan wrote:
> > >
> > > > 1. I assume it is normal for the rotor to rub on the pads a little as
> > > > the wheel turns without the brake being applied. Is this true? how
> > > > much rub is right, too much or too little??
> > >
> > > The pads should rest against the rotor with virtually no pressure.
> > > >
> > > > 2. Why has only one pad worn away? At times I would smell burning
>brakes but it > was inconsistent. Is this the sign of a frozed piston? If
>so, I do not have an > air compressor and the greese gun method seems awefully
>messy. Therefore, my > option would be to take the caliper to a shop and have
>them see if they can blow > air into the brake line fiting. this is how it
>should be done, right??
> > > >
> > > Your problem description sounds as if the piston is stuck in the caliper
> > > and not withdrawing properly. THis would mean a rebuild of that
> > > caliper.
> > >
> > > > 3. Are there any special tricks, precautions, or techniques in replacing
> > > > the rotor? Do both rotors have to be replaced, or just the bad one?
>The price
> > > > from TRF seems as though it would be cheaper than anything a shop can
>do. Besides, > with this nice groove, I'm not sure there is much they can do
>anyway. Does the > new rotor need any special preparation prior to
>installation?
> > >
> > > If the other is good, just replace the bad one. The only thing that you
> > > need to do before installing is make sure you remove any coatings that
> > > have been put on the rotor to keep it from rusting while on the shelf.
> > > >
> > > > 4. The replacement of the pads and shims seem pretty straightforward,
> > > > again any special techniques or issues the list can
> > > > recommend?
> > >
> > > Just follow the procedure in any of the repair manuals you have.
> > > >
> > > > 5. Any other words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.
> > >
> > > "Drive Safely" 8^)
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Joe Curry
> > > --
> > > "If you can't excel with talent, triumph with effort."
> > >
> > > -- Dave Weinbaum in National Enquirer
>
> --
> "If you can't excel with talent, triumph with effort."
>
> -- Dave Weinbaum in National Enquirer
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