Hassan, Erkan wrote:
> 1. I assume it is normal for the rotor to rub on the pads a little as
> the wheel turns without the brake being applied. Is this true? how
> much rub is right, too much or too little??
The pads should rest against the rotor with virtually no pressure.
>
> 2. Why has only one pad worn away? At times I would smell burning brakes
>but it > was inconsistent. Is this the sign of a frozed piston? If so, I do
>not have an > air compressor and the greese gun method seems awefully messy.
>Therefore, my > option would be to take the caliper to a shop and have them
>see if they can blow > air into the brake line fiting. this is how it should
>be done, right??
>
Your problem description sounds as if the piston is stuck in the caliper
and not withdrawing properly. THis would mean a rebuild of that
caliper.
> 3. Are there any special tricks, precautions, or techniques in replacing
> the rotor? Do both rotors have to be replaced, or just the bad one? The
>price
> from TRF seems as though it would be cheaper than anything a shop can do.
>Besides, > with this nice groove, I'm not sure there is much they can do
>anyway. Does the > new rotor need any special preparation prior to
>installation?
If the other is good, just replace the bad one. The only thing that you
need to do before installing is make sure you remove any coatings that
have been put on the rotor to keep it from rusting while on the shelf.
>
> 4. The replacement of the pads and shims seem pretty straightforward,
> again any special techniques or issues the list can
> recommend?
Just follow the procedure in any of the repair manuals you have.
>
> 5. Any other words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.
"Drive Safely" 8^)
Regards,
Joe Curry
--
"If you can't excel with talent, triumph with effort."
-- Dave Weinbaum in National Enquirer
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