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Re: My 77 Spitfire questions

To: Victor Michael <vmichael@enteract.com>
Subject: Re: My 77 Spitfire questions
From: Malcolm Walker <walker05@camosun.bc.ca>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 16:37:20 -0700 (PDT)
Cc: "'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
On Tue, 30 Jun 1998, Victor Michael wrote:

> Question:  How does one get beyond these rusted or otherwise hard to crack 
> connections? Is this just a sign of an old car and should I just expect to 
> replace all these parts after having to demolishing them to pieces or the 
> sign of an inexperienced "mechanic" or what?

Ouch.

Yes, rusted brake fittings are a sign of old-car-ness.  Do you have flare
nut wrenches?  They are hexagonal, with one of the apexes removed; you
slip it over the line and down onto the fitting.  Gives more available
bearing area for the wrench.

I have also found that 3 days' worth of penetrating fluid and vice-grips
can persuade *really stuck* fittings.  I had to plumb new lines from the
master cylinder back to the rear axle on my TR4- and I didn't have enough
money to replace anything other than the lines.  LOTS of liquid wrench
(and GM-brand aerosol penetrant) was used during the repair of my brakes!

If you are replacing the line, it's also possible to remove a stuck
fitting by clipping it right near the end, and using a 6-point socket and
a short ratchet.  If you use a big one, then you'll only end up busting
something.  (even with the 1/4" ratchet I have broken frozen bleeders)
--naturally, do NOT use a cheater bar!  Apply more penetrant and go away.
Try again tomorrow.  Etc, etc.

(this is not the most fun thing to do to a daily driver, esp. if it's your
only car)

> So now, I've replaced the wheel cylinders, virtually all the brake lines in 
> the rear, and given it a new pair of shoes.  The driver side drum was harder 
> than I expected to get over the shoes, but I figure I might have to wear them 
> in? A little smoke at first after braking hard to test the new brakes, but it 
> subsides.  All seems well. I might have an "actual" mechanic have look.

Do it!  Around here brake inspections are free.  No excuse not to.

> Question: Since I'm looking to restore (long range) but will be using it for 
> summer driving (in the city), would you recommend repairing the leak in the 
> Honda radiator or replacing it with a Spitfire radiator? The bonnet, etc will 
> be needing work when I get to this stage of restoration, so should I wait for 
> the new radiator until then? Is the Spitfire radiator large enough?

It depends- is it a wear leak or a damage leak?  If your rad leaks because
of a ding due to rocks, braze it up.  If it's pinholes due to corrosion,
best to replace it (or put some black pepper in the antifreeze)

regards,
-Malcolm


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