EPaul21988@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 98-06-28 01:03:04 EDT, bmack@direct.ca writes:
>
> << If I am taking apart the suspension to do a MOSS major suspension kit
> anyway
> should I replace the trunions and balljoints and COILS or what????
>
> My anticipation is that if the body is off even with the new engine etc it
> should sit up!!!! The thing that holds it up are the springs, unless
> SOMETHING is siezed DOWN....
>
> Gentlemen....your honest and humble consideration to this matter would be
> appreciated and furthermore....dammit just like you I got little cash to put
> into this venture...... >>
>
> Well, you asked. I absolutely do not understand anyone NOT replacing the
> critical suspension parts in a TR this old. (or steering, or anything else for
> that matter) Yes it looks OK. Yes it feels OK. Yes the PO SAID he'd
> replaced it just before he parked it 10 years ago. But the odds are it just
> won't last long under any kind of real use. Rubber rots. Metal fatigues. If
> the thing is lopsided, yes something has given way. So what do you do? A
> 'repair" and put in the part you think causes the problem and hope the rest of
> the 35+ year old parts hold up?
>
> I suggest that your car deserves more. It is false economy to 'save' $7.50
> on a part that 'looks' OK after you've spent so many hours working on the
> thing. In my book there's only one way to do it right. Strip the frame
> completely, every nut and bolt. Measure the frame for 'square' then start the
> reassembly with new parts whenever possible and check the dimensions of every
> used ( or new for that matter) part you reinstall . This includes even nuts
> and bolts. Nylock nuts are made to use one time. I'm not talking about
> building a concourse car here, just a reliable car. One that starts when you
> want it to, drives well to where you want to go with little to no problem.
> It's perfectly possible. You won't get that with unknown, worn parts. You
> are the factory. You are building a new car.
>
> There was an "alert' on this list a short time ago by an owner who inspected
> a critical steering part, believed it safe then had it fail resulting in no
> steering.
>
> The good news is that the factory records of all the technical specifications
> are available. Parts availability is better than it was in 1965, just a few
> years after production of the TR3 stopped. True that the quality is mixed but
> on average the quality is very good, certainly better than 30+ year old parts
> that have been sitting on a car. I suggest that if YOU don't know the
> provenance of a part, it is suspect. If you are replacing all the parts
> around it why not be thorough. Consider all the labor involved.
> That's my 3 cents worth.
>
> Bob Paul
> TS7280L 55 TR 2
> TS45738 L O 59 TR3
> TS 71101 L STC 62 1960 TR3
> F376 36 Morgan Three Wheeler ( Now here's a car you take no chances with if
> you want to drive it)
Yes, replace the trunnions while you are in there, also, Revington in the
U/K, makes and sells idler arms that will last (brass) and not wear out
in a 1K miles, get his catalogue you will be surprised, much better
quality than anything the big "3" sell. In the long run you save money
doing it right the first time, you will just be broker a little longer
but the front end will be nice.Every since I started meshing with these
cars I've been broke and just thought every one else was broke also,
never knew there was a difference, still don't.
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