Hank,
It's easy to install either the SU's or Weber you mention. However, I'm
not sure what effect it would have on Emissions. You can get a set of 1
1/4" SU's from an early 1300 engine and they will bolt right on. Or you
can get a 1 1/2" SU setup from across the pond. They were standard on
many 1500's in Europe where the emissions standards were not as strict.
Either will boost your performance. The Weber downdraft may be a better
choice for emissions, however. They are available with either manual or
automatic choke.
Sorry, can't help with the captive nut question. The only thing I know
about captive nuts is what I learned from Jack Nicholson in "One Flew
Over the Cuckoo's Nest".
Regards,
Joe Curry
Hank Brakman wrote:
>
> Hi All
>
> Whilst (like the British English?) removing the hardtop of my '78 Spitfire
> this spring, one of the front bolts wouldn't come out. Infact what
> happened is that the captured nut started turning in the top. I had to
> grind the head of the hex head cap screw off. Now that I've got this top
> off the car, I'm wondering how I'll fix this! The head liner was getting a
> bit ratty anyway so I pulled it away from the front of the top. I can get
> my small finger onto the captured nut holder, but that's all I can get on
> it! My question is: has anyone else had this problem and how did you fix
> it? Also, does anyone have the "b-pillar" mounting hardware for the top
> that they'd like to sell me?
>
> I would like to add a little punch to my Spit. Unfortunately, I live in
> Connecticut where you have to get your car smog checked every year once it
> gets to be over 10 years old. What I'm looking for is a recommendation as
> to how to make a little more power, with a mod that I can easily remove at
> inspection time... How difficult is it to put on a set of SU's or a
> downdraft Weber? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks, Hank
> 1978 Spit
--
"If you can't excel with talent, triumph with effort."
-- Dave Weinbaum in National Enquirer
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