Lawrence R Zink wrote:
>
> I tried that originly, but after being in place for 33 years, they wanted to
> stay home and not tonight dear I have a headache. I wound up having to burn
> the darn things out and then use emery cloth to clean up the inside of the
> hole. This is not a pleasant task. Especially when your S.O. (insert)
> spouse, girlfriend, boyfriend (for those of an alternate life style) wants
> to know if you know what your doing.
Trust me, Larry, they don't _really_ want to know what you're doing, or
don't really want to know if you do, they just want to make you feel as
if you don't. <g>
> I had to use my recipricating saw to
> cut through the bolts just to get them accessable. You know, break a few
> blades, cuss a lot, throw stuff around that you have to hunt for later. And
> , of course, you ask yourself, "Why in the bloody hell did I start this?".
> We all know the answer, come on now, the answer is......... Shipwright's
> Desease. It's a form of insanity common among those of us that own LBC's.
> You figure, Hey , $15 for those neat poly busings, $5 for the new nuts,
> bolts and washers. This shouldn't take more than a couple of hours to do.
> And three days later, after the parts arrive, while your poor car is sitting
> in a state of partial dismemberment.
What, just three days? Consider yourself lucky! <g>
> You still don't have the parts ready
> to go back in. All looks hopeless, you go and have your favorite libation
> (beer). Ponder the meaning of life, have another libation or two, and a
> sudden thought stikes you. Hey, I have a couple of shop manuals here
> someplace, I guess I could read them. Surely they can tell me what to do,
> ennnnnt(buzzer noise), wrongo Beer breath, Who in the Sam Hill wrote these
> damn things. Why can't someone write a shop manual for those who use it,
> most of us are not Automotive Engineers.
Hmmm, are we reading the same manuals? <g> Most of the ones I have are
rather clever at avoiding the _real_ issues, and there's not much
engineering talk in them.... Something like, "remove the bolts retaining
the upper member." That's sort of like saying, "your choice of weapons."
<g>
> Heck some of us are not even
> Engineers of any kind, except for my modle railroad. (tongue in cheek).
> Okay, I'm wandering again, it happens to me late at night. Especially after
> trying to get something to fit into place when you just took it apart.
> ie, the brake pads they sent me will not fit into the calipers. The darn
> things are about 1/8 inch wider than the ones that came out. Even took the
> grinder to them and ground off the excess metal on both sides of the pad
> material.
This one is pretty easy. Someone sold you the wrong pads, period, unless
you were not able to get the pistons in the calipers to completely
retract because of rust, bad seals or accumulated corrosion. As for
removing the metal backing, rather than the friction material, I do hope
we don't meet at an intersection any time soon. <g>
> Now they fit in the caliper, but I can't get them over the new
> rotor. I can buy pads and shoes for my '66 Thunderbird, but I can't find
> the correct pads for the Spit. Has anyone had a similar experience?
With regard to brake parts, the closest I've come to this is a kit
supplied for the model year listed which, when it came time to put them
together, were obviously for a caliper other than that listed. Problem
there was the wire spring retainers for the outer piston boot. Just
wouldn't go on without much fussing. Finally made a tool to get them
together, but don't trust it a bit.
Cheers.
--
My other Triumph runs, but....
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