FWIW, I did mine in about 30min. I've done VW and BMW glass the same way
without any hassles. The key for me is the type string/cord used and the fact
a new seal will have a waxy coating on the rubber which reduces friction.
Regarding the former: look for a braided nylon string that has a silky feel to
it. The tensile strength is extremely high for these purposes. Zip-off some
of the inner lip of the old seal - on the top and top corners - enough to
rotate the top of the glass out. Clean up and get the new seal on the glass.
Cut and tie the ends of the string - enough to overlap a couple feet while in
the channel of the seal and where the ends are available more or less at one of
the lower corners. Tie the tail onto one of those small golf score-card
pencils just in case you get carried away right before you finish and pull the
string out before you're done - never happened to me before (OK, maybe just a
couple times). Work from the inside w/ a glove (wimp) and a small bladed
screwdriver occasionally (small plastic widgets work better, I used a piece
that came with the Weller soldering kit). Just pull on the string to work the
seal over the lip. Start on the bottom. Don't worry when the glass seems to
go out of alignment, it'll work it's way back. Periodically work the seal
home with the fingers. One shouldn't need to apply much if any pressure on the
outside - on the Spit it's definitely a one person gig. I don't feel it's
needed but if silicone is your thing then apply it afterwards with a narrow
nossle running behind a small plastic putty knife.
J Pudvin
'77 Spit, '84 RX7, '84 Supra
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