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RE: Spitfire clutch bleeding

To: "'Hayes'" <htjhayes@mysurf.com>
Subject: RE: Spitfire clutch bleeding
From: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 11:28:40 -0600
Cc: "'TR6 List'" <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Oops, I think I missed the part where you loosen the bleed screw at the
start of step 5 (just before you are ready to inject) and tighten it at
the end of step 5 just after you have injected all the fluid from the
syringe).

Peter Zaborski
76 TR6 (CF58310 UO)
Calgary AB Canada


        -----Original Message-----
        From:   Peter Zaborski 
        Sent:   Friday, May 16, 1997 11:21 AM
        To:     'Hayes'
        Cc:     'TR6 List'
        Subject:        RE: Spitfire clutch bleeding

        On my TR6 I had to use a syringe to inject flyuid into the slave
        cylinder in order to "prime" it. If I didn't do this I found no
matter
        how much I beld the thing, I would never achieve a firm pedal.
Basically
        my probelm was that I had a huge air bubble in the slave
cylinder which
        no amount of bleeding would dispell. Here is what I think I did
(it was
        a while ago):

        1. Attach all components as required (MC, SC, hoses).
        2. Obtain a syringe and piece of clear tubing which will fit
over the
        the end of the syringe at one end and ove the slave cylinder
bleed screw
        at the other end.
        3. Instead of bleeding the system, you will inject it with clean
fluid
        using the syringe.
        4. Fill the syringe with clean fluid and remove any air bubbles
(just
        like the nurse does before she gives you a needle). Be careful
not to
        allow air into the tubing you have attached to the bleed screw.
        5. Plug the syringe into the tubing and slowly inject the fluid.
Observe
        the air bubbles moving through the clear tubing between the SC
and MC
        (it' sclear tubing on a TR6 anyway).
        6. Repeat 4 and 5 until no more air is evident in the clear
tubing.
        7. Bleed the system in the normal fashion. You should get the
reward
        you've been seeking - the nice firm feel of a Triumph clutch
pedal!

        If your tubing between the MC and SC is not clear, then you may
be able
        to get someone to observe the bubbling in the fluid reservoir at
the top
        of the MC.

        Good luck!

        Peter Zaborski
        76 TR6 (CF58310 UO)
        Calgary AB Canada


                -----Original Message-----
                From:   Hayes [SMTP:htjhayes@mysurf.com]
                Sent:   Friday, May 16, 1997 11:05 AM
                To:     triumphs@autox.team.net
                Subject:        Spitfire clutch bleeding

                Hi!

                     I'm new to this list and already need some help
with my
        car. Any help
                will be greatly appreciated.

                     After rebuilding the engine on my 1978 Spitfire, I
found
        that my
                clutch no longer worked. I removed the clutch assembly,
rebuilt
        and
                cleaned it completely and put it back together ensuring
that the
        pin goes
                back to the piston, etc, etc. After bleeding them I
tried it and
        it still
                didn't work. I've tried several bleeding methods but
cannot seem
        to find
                one that works. My master cylinder is okay as I have had
it
        recently
                rebuilt. I've ruled out just about everything except the
method
        of
                bleeding I have been using and, god forbid, having put
some
        vital clutch
                part in wrong. If anyone wants to give a starving
student some
        sound
                advice, it would be greatly appreciated!

                This car is my daily driver and I need it to get to SDSU
for
        finals week.
                I think I read a couple messages by San Diego Triumph
club
        people, but not
                sure. 

                Thanks in advance!

                Josh Hayes (18)
                78' Spit with od
                60' TR3-A (driven from Michigan to California in 93')


                     

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