[BOUNCE triumphs@Autox.Team.Net: Admin request: /^subject:\s*help\b/i Admin
request of type /^\s*help\s*$/i at line 5]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 07:52:15 -0400
From: "Jack I. Brooks" <brooks@belcotech.com>
Subject: HELP - Clutch forks and shaft
Oh yes, replace the Taper pin on the fork as well.
These can break off in the shaft and are a B*tch to drill out and
retap...
HELP
Upon removal of my tranny I was inspecting all the clutch related
components. The PO had the entire clutch redone less than 5,000 miles ago.
All the clutch components are in nearly new condition and I will not have to
replace any of them.
Unfortunately, however, the taper pin whch holds the fork to the shaft was
broken. I noticed it when I loosened the pin to pull the shaft and clean
everything before reassembly. As a result of the broken pin, I can't remove
the fork from the shaft, as the bolt sheared partially projecting into the
fork hole. I don't see how I can get the access to the bolt to remove it
with the shaft in the bell housing and I can't remove the shaft with the
fork on it. Hence I am stuck.
I am concerned about just leaving it as is, because I can picture it failing
the rest of the way on that dark, lonely country road.
Since I have to cut the shaft to remove it, and the components are all in
very good shape, I am considering having the fork welded to the shaft. Am I
looking for trouble? It just seems silly to trash $90 worth of perfectly
good parts because I can't disassemble them. Later, when they wear out, or
when I do a complete gearbox renovation, I can purchase the parts and cut
the old shaft to replace them. These parts all appear to be almost new.
Thanks in advance.
BTW - the tranny removal was a piece of cake for this 40 year old; car on
jack stands, engine supported, floor jack under tranny. Pulling the clutch
and flywheel, with the engine still in the car was a little uncomfortable,
though.
Jack I. Brooks Brooks@Belcotech.com
Project Manager http://www.Belcotech.com/
Belco Technologies Corporation '60 TR3A
201-560-8861
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