DUHART JOHN wrote:
>
> Hey All,
>
> Well I started removing the U-Joints on the TR6 last night. One is
> broken and I have no idea when the other five were replaced last, so I
> ordered six and decided to replace them all.
>
> After starting this job I have to assume (or hope) there is an easier
> way to remove these u-joints than what I did last night. The tool I
> bought from Sears for removing the circular clips was a piece of crap.
Generally an old screwdriver and a hammer will help persuade the clips
out of the yoke. This part really doesn't require that much finnese, the
clips are included with the new joints.
> Thank goodness I saved the receipt. I was able to get the clips out with
> an All(sp?) and a small screwdriver.
> Then I get a socket and my vice
This is generally the explanation given for joint removal but its very
frustrating and will give you fits. I stripped the leadscrew on my
Starret vise using this techinque. Over the years the best techinques I
have found are the following.
1) Don't use a vise to remove the u-joints unless your resting both
edges of the
yoke on the jaw surface. Tap with a hammer on the other yoke that is
facing you.
The cup facing you will pop out of the yoke. Rotate the yoke 180
degree's and
repeat the process. that will allow you to remove one of the crosses of
this
single cardan joint out of the yoke. Repeat the process on the
remaining cups by
resting the cross (less cups) on the vise jaws. Again tap on the side
of the yoke
to pop the cap off facing you. Repeat and finalize the removal by
rotating again
180 degrees.
Clean out the yokes and debur. Gently press in the cups using the vise
jaw faces.
Now you can get out your sockets and send them home (below the groved
surface) and
set the circlip.
2) OTC sells an excellent combination ball joint and u-joint press for
just over
100 dollars. The nice thing about this tool is that it has all adapters
for ball
joints and you can do some u-joints right on the car (not on triumph)
if their is
enough access like on a four wheel drive.
3) Find someone with a press and the right adapters or sacrifice your
craftsman
sockets.
Number 1 may sound a bit strange but this is the process of choice by
professional mechanics when they don't have a u-joint press or a
hydraulic press.
I learned this technique while working as a line mechanic (for
commision) at a new car dealer in my younger days. It works quite well
and by no means relates to beating the snot out of the yoke with a
hammer. If you enlist a B.F.H. you will inflict damage. The technique is
quite simple once learned and youl will never go back to pushing them
out with a vise. Support
_______ __________
__________/ | |___/
Shaft __________ (0 _x_ Shaft
\___|_|_ \___________
^
Both parts of the yokes
Strike on the small x with a suitable dead blow, brass or medium weight
ball pien hammer.
>
> Now for the big questions. Is this the right way to do this? And if
> so, how does one get the new u-joint in without removing the caps from
> the u-joint? Are the ujoints suppose to be so tightly fitted to the
> flang? Without a vice I never would of stood a chance.
Best of luck and if you use technique 1 you won't break a sweat or you
tools. email me if you still are having problems.
Glenn Franco
71 & 74 TR6's
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