Roger,
I am the one who mentioned the concrete grinder. Basically it breaks off
the top oxidized layer and gets the pores of the concrete open. A
mechanical mean to accomplish what a etch does. It is not effective on
removing old oil, etc, but we used a product called Bullseye, which was
biodegradable. I have no clue as to where it can be obtained. You need
to degrease below the surface the concrete to get the epoxy to stick.
Scrub with a bristle broom and lots of dregreaser.
Jack Brooks
On Thu, 5 Dec 1996 20:27:59 -0500 RGibbs4553@aol.com writes:
>> Caveats,
>> 1.You need a vapor barrier under the floor ....
>> otherwise the epoxy, ... can pop from
>> the hyudraulic pressure of the water under the concrete.
>> and the water squirted up about 2 feet.
>snip
>
>-That's somewhat contradictory from what I've heard.
>
>-A friend who is in the hardware business and well versed -with what
>is
>-commercially available sealed his damp basement a couple of -years
>ago
> -with epoxy. The intent was *specifically* to block the -moisture.
>
> - Brian
>
>Yes but,
>
>Fine Homebuilding did an article (or two) on waterproofing basement
>walls
>sometime in the last coupe of years and a few of the points they
>raised were:
>1. Don't count on waterproofing "membranes" (including water proof
>paint) to
>be able to withstand the hydraulic pressure from standing water. It
>IS able
>to resist high moisture levels, but not standing water.
>
>2. Because the hydraulic pressure from "standing" water will
>eventually find
>it's way / create it's way through paint, epoxy, and other
>waterproofing
>materials it is necessary to drain water away from the foundation
>(rain
>gutters), provide good drainage, provide a proper grade, etc.
>
>On a related topic: have any of you used/rented the concrete grinder
>mentioned as a way to prepare the concrete ?
>
>-Roger
>
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