ron botting wrote:
>
> At 08:38 PM 14/10/96 -0400, you wrote:
>
> t....... Instead go the usual route of sandblasting followed by etch
> >primer and then a good frame paint. I used POR 15 with good results.
>
> Bob,
>
> I am finally coming to some conclusions regarding the many options to clean
> my (rusty) frame. I am having the frame chemically stripped and de-rusted as
> ther is no way to access the rusty rails with any media blasting product. I
> am skipping the Phosphating process in an effort save $$. I was planing to
> use an etching primer followed by POR15 as you suggested. Now my question,
> The POR rep recommends that I skip the etching primer and apply the POR 15
> directly to the frame. What were your thoughts on this and were you advised
> to use the etching primer or were you just more comfortable in doing so ?
> The reason I ask is because when I pick up my frame it should be painted
> ASAP. I was planning to stabilize it with an etching primer after which I
> have to do a few repairs (welding etc). After all repairs have been
> completed I was going to proceed with the POR-15.
>
> Thoughts, comments, suggestions appreciated.
>
> Ron Botting
> Surrey, B.C. Canada
> ron_botting@mindlink.bc.ca
> 57' TR3A (TS23731)Ron,
I do nut bolt and screw restoration on british cars and "others' for a
living. I wish we had a dip tank operation nearby. I sandblast all items
with black blast, cover with Ospho (phosphating) light blast all surfaces to
remove slag and then seal with a two part fill primer. I skip the acid
primer as the Ospho gives me ample profile to get mega bond with 2 pack
sealer.
If I were blessed with a dip operation such as you are, I too would skip the
phosphate bath and would spray the frame with Vari-prime or another acid
based primer before doing *anything* to the frame. A bare frame will begin
to rust as soon as it goes through temp changes and needs protection from
this as well as human touch. Stop by the doctor's office and pick up some
med gloves to keep your body salts off of the metal. They will think that
you are a nut but what else would we be restoring a TR 3 to this degree.
Maybe we should check into the Henery Ford clinic with Tim Allen after his
wife's recient purchase of a 67 Healey.
Wire brush around repair areas to remove cooked Variprime and re-seal
these areas after complete. Wear a mega mask as this stuff will make you
brain dead if you decide to breath while spraying. Be sure to scotch brite
all primed areas prior to refinishing to insure proper top coat stick.
POR 15 may be a good product but Mass marketing does not give you any
more quality but has to raise the price to fund the ads. I have placed
their fuel cell sealer in three Tr tanks and all three have failed after
following directions . I would have called but what is the cost of the
sealer compared to $ 750.00 worth of tanks.
Seal inside of frame with a sprayed mix of white grease and varsol. Varsol
(mineral spirits) will evaporate and grease will seal for ever. Stuff will
go everywhere it needs to if proper holes are drilled. Do the inside after
the outside. Hope this helps. Enjoy.
Jamie Barnhardt
Innovative Restorations
Hummel Airfield
VA, USA
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