Dave Wiliams wrote:
> "Do not use the term braze with body work...."
Dave's intervention was a most useful/helpful bit on working the rust
areas of LBCs...however, those of us who love and drive GT-6s will
immediately recognize the error in the statement he makes...since the
factory actually "brazed" a number of parts on the GT-6.
For my money, brazing probably is an acceptable alternative to welding
where strength isn't the primary consideration, and where "filling" is
one of the important issues...sort of like using brass/bronze in lieu
of lead to finish welded joints and/or repairs. Certainly is easier
to work....?????
PMCQ
73 TR-6
72 GT-6
69 GT-6 (2)
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Body (Car silly !) work hints please
Author: dwilliam@mail.educ.gov.bc.ca (David Williams) at smtpgate
Date: 8/20/96 3:32 PM
snip...
>After a chunk of rust is cut back to good metal, a patch has to be put in
>place. The patch I assume goes UNDER the panel surface ? Brazed on and
>ground down the filled, sanded etc
1. If you are contemplating a metal patch, you should invest in a flanging
tool (Eastwood or local supplier...or?). These come in a variety of forms
from modified vise grips (special jaws welded in) to air powered devices
that will move relatively quickly along a piece of metal. The purpose of a
flange tool is to offset the edge of the panel to allow the patch to sit
at the same level as the rest of the panel and allow you a 1/2' area for
welding etc. You can put the patch on either side but it usually works
better on the 'finish' side. you can stitch weld etc. or fill the entire
edge with weld (or even...shudder...pop rivet) To make the seam properly
weather proof and avoid rust for as long as possible you can use a
fiberglass resin compound with the fiber included in the resin...then grind
etc. to get ready for paint.
2. Do not use the term 'Braze' when referring to body work...beg, borrow,
or otherwise acquire a MIG welder to do the work.
3. if you're looking to concours...you will want to consider butt welding
the patch, then grinding the area smooth....if you haven't welded
before...take a night school course (try Camosun College near you) or get
someone to do it for you and assist.
>For things such as floor pans that get carpet, does the patch still go under ?
4. If you use a flange, the patch should go on the inside of the car but
don't forget to make it weather proof on the outside...
>
>I plan on cutting out the old, and cutting out the new patch about 1/2"
>bigger all around, pop rivet it in and then call my welding buddy. Is this
>okay ? Yes, I'll use metal rivets...
5. 'metal rivets can be aluminum....they can set up a dandy electrolytic
reaction with the body iron and 'corrode' (actually ionize) away in no
time....stick to proper welds
David J. R. Williams
TS 12287L
CF 18015
CF 20725
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