>TO>Both gauges read about 1/3 too low, but when I bypass the stablilizer they
>TO>seem to read fine. The car is a MkII Spitfire, with an Alternator
>TO>conversion (negative ground, if this helps). I've tried three different
>TO>stablilizers with no change in the readings. Is there something else I
>TO>should be looking at?
>Hey Tom,
> When you did the conversion, did you install a ballast resistor in line
>FROM the alternator??
OK, here's the scenario...67 Spit, 1500 Engine, Alternator
conversion with original wiring in the car. Electronic ignition. No I did
not install a ballast resistor. The car runs fine, doesn't overheat, never
has any sort of wierd electrical problems, except that the horn goes off
when you turn left, and when brake fluid drips on the brake pedal switch it
smokes, you know nothing out of the ordinary:)
Basically I just want the gauges to read acurately. DO they really
need to get 10V? Can I install gauges that will take 12V and be accurate?
I'd like to switch to a temp gauge that reads in numbers instead of cold
normal and hot. Once again any and all advice appreciated! Thanks! Tom
> A little more info and we'll try to help you figure this out.
>Best Regards,
>Tony
"So you're going to take us for a ride eh?"
"Yeah, come on"
"Well I don't have a sister!"
"That's ok we no gotta car!"
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