Jon Moody (BME) wrote:
>
> This probably means that the flasher is getting loaded too much. This is
> caused by extra resistance in the circuit
> --Jon Moody
>
>
> >Jon,
I don't want to seem like a nit-picker or anything, but I was
reading your response to Scott's letter and the answer just didn't
seem right. Then as I read Ken Streeter's response I saw why.
If a flasher unit carries a load of too many amps, it will flash
quicker. This is because the bi-metallic strip inside heats up quicker
do to the extra resistance of the load (lights). When the strip heats
up inside the unit it bends, and the contacts separate. Then just as
quickly, it cools making contact (and an audible click), lighting the
signals until the heat once again warps the bi-metallic strip, and so
on and so on...
But if like Ken says, a light is out, then it takes longer for
the strip to heat (if it even does heat up enough) and break contact.
So like I remember it "if it doesn't flash (or flashes slowly) then
check the bulbs; if it flashes too quickly, look for a short circut
like a pinched wire or shorted socket". Corrosion in a plug or socket
will diminish the ability for conductivity but should not increase
amperage draw.
Towing excessively lamped trailers can sometimes create such a strain
on a light duty flasher that it appears to "spas-out" and flash like
mad. Conversely, when I replaced the turn signals on my motorcycle with
some cool looking low-watt "custom" lights, I couldn't get the flasher
unit to flash. In either extreme, an electronic flasher unit (that is
"chock-full of diodes and such-like) will automatically compensate for
varying amperage loads and provide an even, never varying rate of flash.
The only draw-back to these is their price, which is over $10.
Like I said at the beginning, I don't mean to critcize, just to
share how I've learned things to be. I welcome any reprisals...
JOE IV
TR 250
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