John--
Dave is quite right about all this, but do you have the official workshop
manual? The reprint I have for my GT6 has just about all the frame
measurements required to do frame rebuilding, and it would be good to
have a solid source for dimensions if the scrap of paper you wrote down
such-and-such ends up in the dustbin.
> that to disassemble parts without destroying them will be tricky. The top
> and bottom cruciform (brest) plates (the flat pieces of steel that tie the
> cross members and the main frame rails together) need to be cut loose. Since
> these also rust you might consider replacing these as well.
>
> The real tricky part is to get the new parts back in with the proper
> alignment. Take lots of measurements before you cut and do one side at
One thing I would recommend is doing a minimum of grinding wherever
possible. If you grind into a member you intend to keep in the course of
removing one you wish to replace, you've weakened it. One tool I see
fairly frequently in specialty catalogs is a spot weld cutter, and I'd
recommend its use. If used correctly, it will probably greatly reduce
the amount of grinding required and make for a cleaner reinstallation.
Of course, if the TR6 has as many brazed-on sections as the GT6, such a
tool is of limited use. However, if you have lots of spot welds to go
through in the areas to be replaced, might be worth picking up a few of
such cutters.
Cheers.
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