In a message dated 96-05-28 23:43:51 EDT, you write:
>For those of you that were with me on the hot coil issue. Well I'm still
>trying to work this igniton thing out on my '80 Spit. With the Crane
ignition
>installed, it appears that the drive resistor is not used because the
>connection from the distributor that was used for the original ignition is
>disconnected. The question I have is this: Should the drive resistor be in
>the circuit with the Crane ignition and why is there a ballast resistor wire
>and a drive resistor in the original installation. I've replaced the coil
>with a new 12V and than a new 6V, but they are both getting hotter than I
>think is normal. Could the drive resistor have something to do with it? Here
>we go again?
JerseyA,
The drive resistor is part of the original Lucas electronic ignition system.
It was mounted externally to keep engine heat away from it and the heat it
generated away from the rest of the electronic circuitry. As such, it's not
required by the Crane system.
The ballast resistor wire is to reduce the car's operatiing voltage to the
original coil (6v.) If the car's original ballast resistor wire is in place
and working, the voltage at the coil's "+" terminal, with the ignition switch
on (not starting), should be about 7-8v.
The ballast wire is bypassed during starting to supply the full 12v. to the
coil for a momentary hotter spark. All coils need ballast resistance to last
in operation; some require external ballast, as does the OEM coil. Some
aftermarket coils have internal ballast; as does the Lucas Sport Coil or
Bosch's Blue Coil - if you're not sure check with you coil's maker. For the
latter to work properly, the external ballast must be bypassed when the
ignition switch is in the "on" or "run" position. There should be the full
12v. available to the "+" terminal of these coils while the car's going down
the road.
If you're still suffering from an overheating coil - and they all run a
little warm - you may still be trying to run a 6v. coil on the full 12v. That
is, maybe your ballast resistor wire is kaput!
Bottom line: If you're running a 12v. ballasted coil (one with internal
resistance), you need a full 12-14v. while the car is running. If you're
using a 6v. OEM spec coil (requiring external resistance), you need 12v. only
while starting and then 7-8v. while running.
Get youself a good quality VOM (digital or analog) and start checking voltage
at the coil's "+" connector (on a Spit, closest to the starter solenoid).
Good luck,
Charlie B.
Capital Triumph Register
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