>
> The car is now purring like a kitten when it is warm (I now know why I had
> problems balancing the carbs before), but I can't get fast idle! If
> anybody sees me stalling at every set of lights on Chester road, it's
> because I'm trying to keep fast idle with my foot on the accelerator (and
> its hard under braking).
>
> The problem seems to be with the fast idle cams...I can get a sweet fast
> idle, perfectly ballanced at 1200 rpm, but when I release the choke, there
> is still some pre-load I am wondering if the cams could have worn, so that
> the screws have to be further out than normal at the fast idle position.
>
> Does anybody have any experience of this problem, and what can I do to
> rectify it? I have thought of filing the cams to remove the touching bit
> when the choke is disengaged, but this sems like cheating. In the
> meantime, I've backed the screws well out of the way, so that only the jets
> are affected by the choke, and I have to use my foot for the faster idle.
>
> regards,
>
> Chris.
I think it is unlikely that the cams have worn. I set my fast idle
screws as close to the cams as possible without
touching, with the choke in. This allows maximum fast idle.
The slow idle is set to more like 1000, rather than the 600-800rpm
recommended. This helps keep the fast idle high enough on those
cold mornings.
I also found the timing has quite an effect on how the car runs when
cold. I tend to set mine closer to 12 degrees BTDC than 10.
Bob Edgar
Hampshire
England
1978 Spitfire 1500
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