CWNicholls@aol.com writes:
<<<Any set of jumpers that won't start a dead battery car should be thrown
out!
I've only experienced a hard start with cheap X-mart aluminum wired type
when trying to start a big V-8! My jumpers now are multi-stranded
pure-copper welding cables, the copper part the diameter of your middle
finger, very flexible (even in winter here in Massachusetts) 16 feet long
with large copper clamps at each end. They work every time!
I aggree that maybe you have a bad connection and charging from the mercedes
for a while (diesel? UGHH!! how tacky) may help.
The key is a set of good cables, connect the negative to the block and not a
manifold. this delivers max power to the starter. (Alternator bracket OK),
Positive to the positive battery cable. If there isn't another problem, such
as a bad starter or solenoid or connection somewhere (which I suspect there
is, check the contacts between the battery and the starter) you should be
able to start your TR with jumpers no problem!
Good luck and let me know how you make out!
Clark>>>
This is good advice, yet if a battery is really dead, especially in cold
weather, the jumpers might not pass enough power to start the car. Even
thick, well constructed jumper cables have a voltage drop that can prevent
the car being started from getting enough power.
I have found that the best solution for this is one of those big battery
charger/ starter units from a place like Sears. I have one with wheels and
it has a 200 amp starting capability. This is guaranteed to turn over an
engine instantly no matter how dead the battery is. It was only about $100.
on sale.
Use caution in cold weather as a frozen (I mean FROZEN, not just cold)
battery can explode if charged without being warmed up first.
LBC's seem to need more power on some starters than the average car. Has
anyone else experienced that?
Dave
'72 Spitfire
Lots of parts from dismantled '74 and '77 Spitfires
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