Well given it was a 60's ford, the engineers would have definintly accounted
oil
leaking out of the valve covers so it may be with oil...
Ok, I have
had enough fun for one day :)
Sandy
________________________________
From: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc: Tiger's
Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, April 18, 2012 6:29:46 PM
Subject: Re:
[Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
Interesting..torque specs weren't up front
in the head specs...
Thanks, I stand corrected. I will no go out and torque
the plugs in the
Tiger to 17.5 ft-lbs...is that with or without lube?
mayf
______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913
mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed
On 4/18/2012 5:32 PM, Ron Fraser
wrote:
> Spark plug torque
>
> Tapered plug - snug + 1/8 turn
> Washer style -
snug + 1/4 turn
>
> This seems to be the norm for spark plugs.
>
> Tiger Shop
Manual - Section B - Page 70 - torque = 15 - 20 ft lbs
>
> Ron Fraser
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
> Sent:
Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:18 PM
> To: Jay Laifman
> Cc: Tiger's Den
>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
>
>
> Intersting...but, I am
throwing the BS flag on this one. When the plug
> was fires, in this case,
and the spark arcs under the boot to the metal
> case, it is done. The case
with its tapered seat grounds the spark to
> the head and no further current
flows. The engineer mentions that the
> spark runs down the case to the
inside of the spark where the center
> electrode is housed in ceramic and
sparks inside there. I don't think
> so. Again, in a normally firing plug,
the current flows down the center
> of the plug, jumps the gap and grounds
itself on the side of the plug
> case. That side is grounded both by the
threads and the plug seat. As
> to the anti seize, yeah too much is a bad
thing. But it must also be
> noted that the common variety anti sieze
compounds use some sort of
> metallic powder in them. I have two different
kinds, one with small
> copper microballs and one with a nickel alloy for
higher heat
> applications. The metals in the anti seize are conductive in
>
themselves so having them between the threads and head material is a
> non
issue. getting the goo on the electrode is a problem though and you
> should
avoid that. Also, getting it on the exterior plug ceramic is a
> no no as
well. Why? well because it IS conductive stuff. so if you have
> a db on the
ceramic the spark energy will take the easiest path to
> ground and that
isn't through the center electrode. Anybody remember
> what the plug torque
is for their spark plugs in their Tigers? I don't
> see it in the repair
manual. I didn't get a torque spec with the
> aluminum heads for the race car
either. Most say something like hand
> tight plus a bit extra with the
wrench. As to putting the dielectric
> grease inside the boot. Oh yes! It
makes those suckers really easy to
> get all the way on. And that makes good
electrical contact with the
> center electrode. It doesn't seem to help me
get the boot off though.
>
> Just use a dab of ante seize. like a bit on a q
tip. Or use milk of
> magnesia, works just as well and is non conductive.
>
>
happy sparking
>
> mayf
>
> ______________________________
> drmayf
> Worlds
Fastest Sunbeam, period.
> 204.913 mph flying mile
> 210.779 mph exit speed
>
>
> On 4/18/2012 12:51 PM, Jay Laifman wrote:
>> Every car guy should watch
this!
>>
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zw7d8B8ETw&feature=player_embedded
>>
>> Jay
>> _______________________________________________
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