Just a caution to all about specific torque figures. The 15 - 20 ft- lb figure
in the shop manual is probably a dry torque figure. Anti-sieze on the threads
acts as a lubricant. It will result in a considerably tighter actual clamping
force (and stress on the plug threads) at a 15-20 ft-lb torque reading than you
would have at the same torque and no anti-sieze .
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: drmayf@mayfco.com, "Jay Laifman" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Cc: "Tiger's Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 7:32:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
Spark plug torque
Tapered plug - snug + 1/8 turn
Washer style - snug + 1/4 turn
This seems to be the norm for spark plugs.
Tiger Shop Manual - Section B - Page 70 - torque = 15 - 20 ft lbs
Ron Fraser
-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:18 PM
To: Jay Laifman
Cc: Tiger's Den
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
Intersting...but, I am throwing the BS flag on this one. When the plug
was fires, in this case, and the spark arcs under the boot to the metal
case, it is done. The case with its tapered seat grounds the spark to
the head and no further current flows. The engineer mentions that the
spark runs down the case to the inside of the spark where the center
electrode is housed in ceramic and sparks inside there. I don't think
so. Again, in a normally firing plug, the current flows down the center
of the plug, jumps the gap and grounds itself on the side of the plug
case. That side is grounded both by the threads and the plug seat. As
to the anti seize, yeah too much is a bad thing. But it must also be
noted that the common variety anti sieze compounds use some sort of
metallic powder in them. I have two different kinds, one with small
copper microballs and one with a nickel alloy for higher heat
applications. The metals in the anti seize are conductive in
themselves so having them between the threads and head material is a
non issue. getting the goo on the electrode is a problem though and you
should avoid that. Also, getting it on the exterior plug ceramic is a
no no as well. Why? well because it IS conductive stuff. so if you have
a db on the ceramic the spark energy will take the easiest path to
ground and that isn't through the center electrode. Anybody remember
what the plug torque is for their spark plugs in their Tigers? I don't
see it in the repair manual. I didn't get a torque spec with the
aluminum heads for the race car either. Most say something like hand
tight plus a bit extra with the wrench. As to putting the dielectric
grease inside the boot. Oh yes! It makes those suckers really easy to
get all the way on. And that makes good electrical contact with the
center electrode. It doesn't seem to help me get the boot off though.
Just use a dab of ante seize. like a bit on a q tip. Or use milk of
magnesia, works just as well and is non conductive.
happy sparking
mayf
______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed
On 4/18/2012 12:51 PM, Jay Laifman wrote:
> Every car guy should watch this!
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zw7d8B8ETw&feature=player_embedded
>
> Jay
> _______________________________________________
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