Tigers,
Because it is a long message, on a complex issue that has been discussed
many times, I was forced to break it into two messages. This is to
avoid exceeding the 4K limit on List Messages. Sorry, but this is
complex, and needs addressing.
Part 1
I just can't help it!
With all the back and forth on coolant, I am driven to add my $0.02
worth of experience.
First, a few facts that any KNOWLEDGEABLE person can refute with sources:
1) Distilled water can come in many grades, depending on the quality of
the equipment, and the number of times the effluent is run through the
vaporization/condensation cycle and equipment cleanliness.
2) Most grocery stores carry gallon jugs of distilled water, but do not
depend on the box boy to know which bottle is which. They usually try
to hand you the de-ionized type.
3) Distilled water is (or should be) pure H2O, with no dissolved
material ions present, nor any particles. It has a neutral acidity
(7.0), and is not "hungry" to add soluents. However, any water based
fluid will dissolve a water soluble contaminant, given the opportunity.
It will hold as many disassociated ions of the mineral as the solubility
of the contaminant allows at the temperature of exposure. Not an atom
more. HOWEVER, it will still dissolve another mineral up to it's
solubility limit, and so forth.
4) I personally insist on a 50/50 mixture of distilled water and a good
brand of antifreeze with water pump lube and other additives. The
weather never gets to the point of freezing water, unless you head for
Arrowhead, Big Bear, or other mountain area. I use the antifreeze for
the additives. It actually lowers your boiling point. This MUST be
drained and changed every two years, maximum. It's the water pump lube
that actually needs replacement, and can be done with a small can of it,
but the loose scale will still be there. Stuff is cheap enough. anyway,
and gives you the opportunity (forces you) to examine your connections
and hose condition. The lower hose is especially prone to softening,
and can collapse and choke the engine off from radiator water. Yes,
there should absolutely always be an internal wire to prevent this, but
you still don't want soft rubber. You can make your own from stainless
wire if you can't find the right size already installed. I, personally
am against molded-in wire with that spiral form. The resistance to flow
doesn't help.
5) No matter what you with coolant, there are still two gremlins ready
to destroy your engine and cooling system. One is particulate matter
(probably cylinder wall scale) which can still occur if any air, or
corrosive gases, gets added to the fluid through opening the
pressurized seal (cap), or a leak in a pressurized gasket (head). Side
wall rust can occur, and scale due to poor adhesion, age, mechanical
scrubbing, vibration, etc.
(end Part 1)
Steve Laifman
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