Part 2
5) No matter what you with coolant, there are still two gremlins ready
to destroy your engine and cooling system. One is particulate matter
(probably cylinder wall scale) which can still occur if any air, or
corrosive gases, gets added to the fluid through opening the
pressurized seal (cap), or a leak in a pressurized gasket (head). Side
wall rust can occur, and scale due to poor adhesion, age, mechanical
scrubbing, vibration, etc.
6) This is why the Gano filter, annually cleaned, is another essential
cooling system ingredient. The brass housed model has raised lips to
assure the hoses aren't blown off. A skillful person can have the twin
screens removed and inserted into the hose at the inlet to the radiator,
or even have the fixed portion soldered to the inlet tube - although
there might be a diameter difference that makes hose selection difficult.
7) A good idea is to have your cooling system back flushed to remove
scale that is about to happen. Make sure your radiator is not part of
the flow. You absolutely do not want particles in your cooling tubes.
They tend to clog flow, and "rodding them" is more likely, than not, to
pack the particles at the tube bottom, rendering it useless.
8) Dissimilar metals are a big killer of alloy parts in your cooling
system. Electrolysis, which is enhanced by contaminated coolant having
higher electrical conductivity, allows metals on the higher side of cast
iron to be eaten away as in a electroplating process. This is why there
are so many intake manifolds whose cooling passages are eaten away. One
dumb choice of a polished "chrome" thermostat housing is that it is
usually a poor alloy and NOT aluminum. The "O-ring" groove is
mistakenly circular, instead of rectangular, in cross section.
Additionally the soft ears for attach bolts bend, allowing the clamping
pressure to diminish. However, things are not all negative. This
cruddy part, being higher on the electromotive table, electrolyticly
dissolves and sacrificially saves your manifold (and water pump). BUT,
they must be replaced before they develop a whole, or loose clamping
force. A better method is to suspend a magnesium rod (or zinc), or set
of disks, that are attached by a grounded chain. This can be done in
the "surge tank", and is replaced when near gone. Warshawski's (J. C.
Whitney, to those who have never been to Chicago)
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/StoreCatalogDisplay/c-10101/s-10101/TID-8010031
carry this item, including brass radiator cap grounding ring and chain,
as part ZX747496U
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ItemBrowse/c-10101/s-10101/p-100000213385/mediaCode-ZX/appId-100000213385/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000213385
for $13. WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR?
Well, there are about 4 more pages or miscellaneous boring stuff I
could write, and have in "Cool It, Buddy", on TigersUnited.com
http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/SteveLaifmanValance/pt-SteveLaifmanValance1.asp
Note that the half size overflow bottle is shown just ahead of the surge tank
in a picture in this article.
Whew! I hope this was worth the effort of creating, and the effort or your
reading.
Steve Laifman
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