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RE: rear sway bar

To: Theo Smit <TSmit@novatel.ca>, Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: rear sway bar
From: Bob Palmer <rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu>
Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 12:54:04 -0700
Theo, et Listers,

Ah, so many good postings, so little time!! Are we headed for a record 
number today??

Fellow San Diegan Fred Puhn's great book "How to Make Your Car Handle" has 
a picture that looks like your Corolla on page 95 Theo. Looks like maybe 
it's lifting its inside REAR wheel though. ;-) But, on page 96 he uses a 
picture of a Porsche at Willow Springs lifting its inside front wheel at 
least a couple of inches off the road to make an important point. The 
picture caption reads: "If your car lifts a front tire off the road in a 
turn it has too much front roll stiffness, too little rear roll stiffness, 
or a combination. A car on three wheels generally cannot corner as fast as 
on four wheels due to the excess roll after the wheel lifts off. Change the 
roll stiffness so that the tires al remain on the road in a steady-state 
corner. Adjusting roll stiffness to tune the suspension has no effect on a 
three wheeled car." I remember watching a bunch of Porshes racing at 
Riverside and every last one of them lifted their inside front wheels, just 
like Fred's book shows. But then, we all know how smart Posche owners are, 
now don't we!!

You are right that, in stock form, the Tiger's chassis isn't stiff enough 
to do justice to the kind of springs and sway bars you would use for 
performance purposes. A good roll cage will help this problem a lot as well 
as adding to your personal safety, both on the highway and on the track. 
All of these considerations notwithstanding, I would urge everyone who 
wants to improve the handling of their vehicle, Tiger or otherwise, to 
upgrade the springs FIRST and then add sway bars primarily as a means to 
fine-tune roll stiffness. I would think the way to do this right would be 
to start with no sway bars on the car and work with just the springs front 
and back until you get them just about right so you control total up/down, 
dive, roll, roll steer, understeer/oversteer, etc. to about as good as you 
can get it, according to your own particular criteria. THEN, add modest 
sway bars front and rear - not so much to add more roll stiffness, but to 
give you an easy means to adjust the roll stiffness. Of course, this 
implies using sway bars with adjustable stiffness.

Looking at the picture of the disc brake setup of Doane's car on page 157 
of Mike Taylor's book, I think I can see some rear sway bar hardware, but 
it's hard to tell for sure. However, for the reasons I given, I would find 
it surprising if a race car didn't have some means like a sway bar for 
easily adjusting roll stiffness according to track conditions.

Finally, I think you also tend to overemphasize the front end heaviness of 
a Tiger. In fact, once you get the right motor mounts in your car and get 
the engine back where it belongs, the weight balance is really pretty good. 
If you work at it a little with fiberglass hood, aluminum heads, etc., you 
can probably get it to 50/50. But the fact is, when some of the best Tigers 
run against other marques at autocrosses, and at vintage races, etc.., they 
do damn well. And at the Tigers United events, the top times are usually 
either in Stock or Personalized class. So maybe the message is there's a 
lot of improvement you can make in your Tiger while keeping it still 
"Stock", but it's a lot easier to make it worse than better if you don't 
know what you're doing. (Not that anyone on the List answers that 
description. ;-)

Well, TTFN,

Bob



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