> -----Original Message-----
> From: DJoh797014@aol.com [SMTP:DJoh797014@aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, January 15, 1999 9:36 AM
> To: tigers@triumph.cs.utah.edu
> Subject: Radiator Ramblings
>
> Theo
>
> I think I've seen your Tiger. I remember noting it was the last MK IA
> built. Its not often I see a MK IA with a serial number higher than my
> B382002668. I did happen to meet the owner of B382002669. His
> name was also Johnson and he was from Omstead, OH. Since my
> Tiger is red, that would explain the red overspray on his green car!
>
[] Actually, '2705 is neither the last Mk 1A serial number (that would
be B382002706), nor was it the last one built, according to Norm's book. The
last Mk1A went out the doors early January 1967, but the serial number of that
one is '269x (I don't remember which one offhand). '2705 is second- or
third-last in chronological order.
[] <snip>
Finally, read the CAT tech tips on cooling. Check the timing. If the
timing
> is too far advanced, the engine will overheat. The engine needs the
> themostat to slow flow of water allowing proper heat transfer. Having no
> themostat is bad news. Put a 165 or 185 in. Some people have cut the
> middel of the thermostat out but leaving the rest. Others have rebuilt the
> water pump with an impeller that has few vanes. The object is to slow the
> water down and allow better heat transfer inside the engine.
>
[] If I want to slow the water down I'll put on a smaller crank pulley
or a larger water pump pulley, or put another restrictor in the pump outlet.
Cutting water pump vanes off is a bad idea because it just decreases the pump
efficiency, and at high engine speeds, will cause cavitation. I've seen more
than one water pump housing (not on a Ford motor, but I haven't been inside any
of those) that had serious erosion right at the impeller water exit. Right now
I'm running a 180 thermostat, and the water temperature would sit at about 200
degrees in 70 to 80 degree weather, until I drove the car hard.
> For God's sake, don't fool with rebuilding the guage voltage regulator. Buy
> a new one. They aren't that expensive. While you are at it, borrow someone
> else's guage and see what his reads. Maybe its your guage.
[] If I had a choice between buying a "new" Lucas or Smiths voltage
regulator (or, more likely some NOS 30-year-old piece of burlap and tar with
some resistance wire wrapped around it), or opening up the can and putting $3.00
of modern technology into it, I'm pretty sure I know what I'd have confidence
in, and what would constitute "fooling". Same goes for gauges - I'll verify the
temperature readings with a thermocouple set.
Theo Smit
tsmit@novatel.ca
B382002705
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