Simply because a built up engine is NOT as effecient at normal RPM, and
because of that, your engine actually requires more energy (gas+air) to lope
along at 2,200 RPM than does a block stock engine. That's one of the reasons
you get worse gas milage with built engines, even when just putting along...It
all turn to heat and polution.
As you said, it may take a mere 30 HP to lope along at 45 mph or so (this is
for demonstration purposes only...No correction needed)...but you'll burn twice
the gas, and expend that much more heat. Granted, a lot of the extra gas is
wasted, but some isn't, and that ads heat !!!
Rich
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Parent <jparent@yahoo.com>
To: tigers@autox.team.net <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, June 25, 1998 10:05 PM
Subject: RE: carb
> Dan,
>
>I've heard that before (Tigers become more of a problem when the
>engine is
>modified for performance.). What I don't understand is that when my
>modified Tiger is cruising at 60 next to your stock Tiger, we are both
>generating the same horsepower (i.e. heat). It's only when I stand on
>it and motor away from you that I turn up the heat. Why then, should
>I have cooling problems during normal (sane) crusing?
>
>I agree with your statement about small block fords running better at
>the 200 degree level.( Keep in mind that according to Ford testing as
>quoted by a number of people on this list, the Ford small block runs
>more efficiently with less wear at a temperature range of 190-215
>degrees
>
>I have a Raytek PM Plus non-contact IR temperature sensor. My radiaotr
>has a definite temperate drop across it and the input temp is within 5
>or 6 degrees of the gauge reading. But, depending where I point it I
>can detect 300 plus degrees on the ouside of the block. Has anyone
>used an oil temp gauge and determine the delta between water and oil
>temps?
>
>( Best thing to do to check the "real" temp of your motor
>is to
>get it up to heat, then take it to one of your more hi-tech radiator
>shops.
>They have a "gun" they can point a various spots of the motor to get and
>extremely accurate reading on the temp of the mill and the radiator.)
>
>It also seems to me that even with a couple of psi from the
>pump/radiator back pressure that the cap should let you get well above
>212 before it pukes. When that happens I suppose that there is more
>steam in the "closed" system and therefore the cooling effect is
>lessened and the beast overheats even more.
>
>How about sending my what you have Dan?
>
>Regards,
>
>Jim Parent
>B9470139
>
>
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