Dan,
A couple of things Dan:
1) Adjust your idle needle valves to specs as listed in one of the after
market Holley manuals you can get at your local bookstore. There as some
general settings that fit most Holley's but it is a good idea to look at the
book for your specific model. Adjust as noted in the book at idle, but only
AFTER you get the fuel floats adjusted correctly.
2) With the float (Fuel) bowl windows that you access by removing the brass
screws on each side of the float bowl: The nice thing about the Tiger is
that with the electric fuel pump you do not have to have the engine running
to check the level. And yes, the fuel should just "Dribble" out or better
yet, be at the level where it looks like a puddle just getting ready to
dribble out the window. It is a good idea to replace the screws, run the
engine for a bit with a couple of revs, stop the engine and re-check the
levels. May take you a couple of trys, but this is the best way to get the
proper float adjustment. In my instance, I have a Motorsports Hi-Po cam
which makes idle a little rougher than normal and this operation difficult
with the engine at idle. Obviously, when you are adjusting the float
levels, the ignition switch should be on and the fuel pump running.
3) With regard to overheating. To quote Tom Hall and others much wiser then
myself: "If it is not expelling fluid, it is not overheating." If you think
overheating is a problem, I can send you some info on what I did to combat
my "hot motor" problem. (reply personally) However, if you have a "Stock"
motor and basically a stock cooling system and you are not expelling fluid,
don't mess with it. Tigers become more of a problem when the engine is
modified for performance. Keep in mind that according to Ford testing as
quoted by a number of people on this list, the Ford small block runs more
efficiently with less wear at a temperature range of 190-215 degrees (do I
have that right folks?). I found this to be true personally when I made the
modifications to the cooling system on my Tiger. I was running a 160 degree
thermostat and found that I could not get the temp up much past 170....and
the engine did not run worth a damn. Switched to a 180 degree and the car
runs much better, but becomes a real beast only when I get it up to about
200 degrees. Best thing to do to check the "real" temp of your motor is to
get it up to heat, then take it to one of your more hi-tech radiator shops.
They have a "gun" they can point a various spots of the motor to get and
extremely accurate reading on the temp of the mill and the radiator. Oh, and
one last thing I learned early on: never fill the copper header tank above
half full. All you will do is expel water and antifreeze until it gets down
to half.
Sorry for the long message. Hope this helps.
Regards,
Allan
B9472373
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-tigers@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-tigers@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Alicia
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 1998 4:36 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: carb
thanks for all the info so far. should gas just weep out of the sight hole
with engine off or at idle ? and how about air screws on the sides? I
adjusted float with engine off and now it wants to cut out when it first
between idle and 1/4 throdle and seams to cut in and out at speed. I have
rebuilt the carb, but have never got it adjusted right. but now its
driveable i can find all the problems and test at speed on the road. I know
over heating is a big problem to and have read many treads on it but never
saw a safe temp number to compare, it runs hot but dosn't seam to boil
over. thanks again
Dan
Alicia & Dan
Windsor, NY
B9471431
B395017486LRX
B395000648LRX
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