At 07:23 AM 1/29/98 -0800, you wrote:
>
> Whats Up Doc!
>
> Before you fabricate out of billet some steering arms, try MGB steering
>arms. You can get them at a wrecking yard for as little as 15 bucks. I
>have a set on my car. They do take some fabricating, 1) one of the holes
>has to be elongated as the mgb arms holes are an rch narower. 2) you will
>need to make two bushings for the forward mounts, the dimentions can be
>obtained from the workshop manual. 3) bump steer and ackerman can be
>adjusted via a torch and some careful mesurments. It is important that you
>know your backspacing of the front rims as this will limit the amount of
>correction that you can obtain.
>Good luck
>Bill Martin
>B9470735
>
Tigers,
If you heat the steering arms with a torch to bend them, fine, but
consider that you have just lost the proper temper of the forgings. Highly
recommend that after you get them bent where you want them, take them to
a professional shop ahd have then re-heat treated.
I have found that the brake disk is the item that limits the correction,
not the wheel. You can go to larger diameter wheels to gain space for the
arm and tie-rod end.
Flipping the disk over is a possibility; but then you have to re do the
caliper mounts and you may need a wheel spacer.
Alpine steering arms, swapped to oppisite sides on a Tiger are also
slightly longer than the Tiger steering arms. No hole fabrication needed.
Longer Arms increase the miniman turn radii as well.
I can not figure out any way to correct the Tiger Ackerman angles.
(and I have tried hard, on computer, on paper and on steel). The steering rack
should be in line with the ends of the steering arms. I can not figure out
how to drill a hole through the crank damper and crank shaft to clear the rack.
Jim Barrett Tiger II 351C and others
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