Chris
A-series to A-series engine swaps are much simpler than what Ed has done.
He has swapped out the Triumph sourced 1500 and replaced it with an A-series
engine, and converted to the Datsun 5-speed gearbox as well. Your swap is
straight forward. Either drive shaft will work for you. Some of the very
late 1275/ribcase cars have a driveshaft with a dust sleave on them, but any
of the A-series driveshafts should work for you.
Dave R.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Manuel" <cmanuel@wi.rr.com>
To: "'spridget list'" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 4:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] vibration at 35mph....and then some...
> OK this is good to know...
>
> So if I swap out in my '66 a 1098 with ribcase with a 1275 with a ribcase,
> I
> need to modify the driveshaft?
>
> Would it be better if I had the driveshaft from the 1275 if I did this
> swap?
>
> thanks
> Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: spridgets-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:spridgets-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Masquelier
> Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 5:38 PM
> To: spridget list
> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] vibration at 35mph....and then some...
>
> Don't know if this went out last night but-
> the easiest fix would probably be to get a proper tranny/driveshaft
> adapter
> from Morrisservice or similar. This would at-least assure you that the
> length
> of the driveshaft is correct (when matched to a common 1275 driveshaft)
> BillM
>
>> Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 09:49:23 -0800
>> From: eap2140@yahoo.com
>> To: Spridgets@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Spridgets] vibration at 35mph....and then some...
>>
>> My car is experiencing a vibration at 35mph or so. It worsens if you
>> try to go any faster. The mechanic's thoughts on this are that the
>> drive shaft is at a severe angle causing the u-joints to bind. I have a
>> 78 Midget with a 1275 and Datsun transmission. We recently installed
>> the rebuilt motor (it was pulled and installed with the tranny). Has
>> anyone experienced anything like this? Could there be an alignment
>> issue with the way it was re-installed? The suggestions are to look for
>> a lower transmission rear mount and install wedges at the axle. I found
>> the 2 degree wedges at Summit and I'm wondering if I need 2 or 4
>> degrees. Do I need to pull the engine and trans to install a lowered
>> rear mount? The other thing he noted was that the yoke is bottomed out
>> on the rear of the transmission leaving me no play for the suspension.
>> Potentially causing bearing wear. My first course of action will be to
>> take the drive-shaft to the shop for evaluation and shortening.
>> Thoughts on how much I should shorten it? The U-joints are an unknown.
>> They flop around loosely when the drive shaft is out of the car. Not
>> sure if they are supposed to be firm. There is no lateral slop in them.
>> This is never-ending. All I want to do is drive my freakin' car.
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