Ed's car is a '78 Midget with a 1275. All the drive shafts from A series
Spridgets are interchangeable. There may be some serious differences in
driveshaft length for the Spitfidget. That's what it sounds like to me.
Hal
On Tue, Dec 8, 2009 at 4:59 PM, Chris Manuel <cmanuel@wi.rr.com> wrote:
> OK this is good to know...
>
> So if I swap out in my '66 a 1098 with ribcase with a 1275 with a ribcase,
> I
> need to modify the driveshaft?
>
> Would it be better if I had the driveshaft from the 1275 if I did this
> swap?
>
> thanks
> Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: spridgets-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:spridgets-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Masquelier
> Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 5:38 PM
> To: spridget list
> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] vibration at 35mph....and then some...
>
> Don't know if this went out last night but-
> the easiest fix would probably be to get a proper tranny/driveshaft adapter
> from Morrisservice or similar. This would at-least assure you that the
> length
> of the driveshaft is correct (when matched to a common 1275 driveshaft)
> BillM
>
> > Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 09:49:23 -0800
> > From: eap2140@yahoo.com
> > To: Spridgets@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Spridgets] vibration at 35mph....and then some...
> >
> > My car is experiencing a vibration at 35mph or so. It worsens if you
> > try to go any faster. The mechanic's thoughts on this are that the
> > drive shaft is at a severe angle causing the u-joints to bind. I have a
> > 78 Midget with a 1275 and Datsun transmission. We recently installed
> > the rebuilt motor (it was pulled and installed with the tranny). Has
> > anyone experienced anything like this? Could there be an alignment
> > issue with the way it was re-installed? The suggestions are to look for
> > a lower transmission rear mount and install wedges at the axle. I found
> > the 2 degree wedges at Summit and I'm wondering if I need 2 or 4
> > degrees. Do I need to pull the engine and trans to install a lowered
> > rear mount? The other thing he noted was that the yoke is bottomed out
> > on the rear of the transmission leaving me no play for the suspension.
> > Potentially causing bearing wear. My first course of action will be to
> > take the drive-shaft to the shop for evaluation and shortening.
> > Thoughts on how much I should shorten it? The U-joints are an unknown.
> > They flop around loosely when the drive shaft is out of the car. Not
> > sure if they are supposed to be firm. There is no lateral slop in them.
> > This is never-ending. All I want to do is drive my freakin' car.
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