Let's see, lots of *stuff* going on here.
First, adjust the valves. If you don't have the push button solenoid,
stick the car in 4th gear, brake off, and rock it to get the valves
open. Adjust them in a #9 sequence. 1 down, adjust 8, 2 down, adjust 7,
7 down adjust 2. .012 cold is the setting.
Now on to the carbs, make sure the choke is not hung up. With the cable
in, push up on the carb jets, they tend to get hung up in the choked
position. If they were not hung up, check the basic adjustment.
2-2 1/2 full turns down from fully shut. I usually start at 2 1/4 turns
or 15 flats of the nut.
Also remove the carb dashpot, make sure the piston drops freely and does
not hang up. 1 grain of sand will cause all kinds of grief.
Make sure there is oil in the dashpots too. Anything up to 20 wt motor
oil will work. ATF, 3 in 1, 5 w 30, just don't use gear oil.
Check for vacuum leaks. Spray some ether or WD-40 around the carb
throttle shafts, intake manifold, carb/intake mounts and see if the idle
raises. Loose carbs and/or a loose intake make for a mind of it's own
idle syndrom.
Check for leaky floats, If you still have all the pollution junk, remove
the tubes that go to the charcoal canister from the float lids, turn on
the key, see if any gas is leaking out of the overflow nipples on the
float bowls.
There should also be a "Y" pipe between the carbs that goes to the
timing cover. This is pretty much the PCV system on the car.
The air pump and gulp valve make cool paper weight ;)
Unhook them for now and plug the hose on the intake. See if it runs
better without them. (most do)
My guess is the smog stuff is sucking oil out of the crankcase and
dumping it into the intake. You need some sort of PCV, without it the
oil will get pumped out of what they refer to as the rear mail seal
which is just a reverse spiral scroll cut on a metal to metal "seal".
--
Frank Clarici
Toms River, NJ
5 British cars on the road
http://www.exit109.com/~spritenut
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