Robert,
one other (important) thing to add:
make sure that the contact surfaces between rotor and hub ar clean -- very
clean !
Small bits of grit / rust between these will put your rotor out of alignment
and the wobble effect plays havock with the brake pad clearances.
Guy
----- Original Message -----
From: Brad Fornal <toyman@htcomp.net>
To: robert weeks <robert@woozy.com>
Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: 10 July 1999 19:14
Subject: Re: Replacing the Brake Rotors
> I replaced just the rotors on my 65 "little person" last summer and it's
> pretty sraightforward.remove the axle nut and remove the entire rotor
> assembly,the splined area has a small hole for removal of the cotter
pin,you
> will need to line that up to get it out.once removed you have access to
the
> bolts that hold the rotor to the splines,it's pretty easy from there.Oh
yeah,I
> had hell trying to figure out how to get the original grease covers off
from
> over the axle nut,I finally gave up and used needle nose vise grips and
> grabbed ahold of the threaded stud that sticks out of the center and gave
it a
> good yank,it's just a push in fit on the grease cover the threaded piece
must
> just be there to grab onto.good luck,Brad
>
> robert weeks wrote:
>
> > Hi Gang,
> >
> > I need to replace the brake rotors and calipers on my '69 Midget. I
bought
> > them a year ago and they've sat in the shed all that time. Now that I've
> > blown through another set of pads in record time I figure I should fix
it
> > right.
> >
> > Is there anything to look out for? Any tricks? This is on a wire wheeled
> > car, do I need any special tools? A lot of my tools got stolen out of
the
> > trunk of the Midget about a month ago and I've only replaced the sockets
> > and combination wrenches so far.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Robert
>
>
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