On the kit the hinge hole is a slot that is angled forward and fits over
the boss on the frame where the bumpers used to bolt so that once the
hood is opened it can just be lifted off the car without having to undo
any bolts. A small plate is riveted to the headlamp area and a cable
with a dogleash type snap at the other end is attached then there is a
piece of angle aluminum with a hole drilled in it bolted using the top
radiator mounting bolts so that you can snap the dog leash to it
limiting the forward tilt of the bonnet. I installed a trailer wiring
connector in the harness so I could unplug the front end easily when I
need to remove it. Unless you make a new mark on the crankshaft pulley
and put a new pointer on the block you have to remove the bonnet to get
a timing light on it.
>From: RMiller930@aol.com
>Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 11:27:49 EDT
>To: millerls@email.msn.com, Spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
>Subject: Re: Bugeye Front-Hinging Hood
>Reply-To: RMiller930@aol.com
>
>In process of fitting my bonnet for front tilt. Used all existing
holes as
>didn't want to cut up car or weld on, made a formica template for hole
>alignment, made steel brackets, mounted with three bolts per side (one
is
>hinge bolt). Removed rear hinges, and am looking at either fitting a
TR6
>style latch in a box to be mounted where hinge used to be on firewall
with
>interior hood release. Even better, look at the latching mechanism on
an XJ-
>S. It appears that would be the "Cat's Meow" (pun) as it latches both
sides,
>no cutting, just bolt latch pins onto the rear bonnet support and the
latching
>mechanism onto the firewall...this setup is too cool...Will let you
know how
>it's going.
>
>Rod Miller
>59 Bugeye (formerly pineapple upside down Bugeye)
>72 TR6
>86 XJ-S
>
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