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Re: oil leaks

To: "Richard D. Arnold" <richard.arnold@juno.com>, <Nory@webtv.net>, <spridgets@AUTOX.TEAM.NET>
Subject: Re: oil leaks
From: Larry Macy <macy@bblmail.psycha.upenn.edu>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 97 01:47:37 -0400
Reply-to: Larry Macy <macy@bblmail.psycha.upenn.edu>
Sender: owner-spridgets@AUTOX.TEAM.NET
On 10/18/97 10:26 AM so and so  Richard D. Arnold said. (And I quote)
Sorry Number A Check the Dip Stick

Larry
>On Friday, 17 October 1997 at 10:26 Nory wrote:
>
>NORY>  Is there any way to, at least temporarily fix the obligatory
>Spridget oil leaks without pulling the engine?
>
>Response by RICH>  The first question is how much work do you want to
>have to do?  I believe you can replace virtually every gasket/seal on the
>engine with it in place (excepting the rear seal) but it is easier to do
>it with the engine out.
>
>If you simply just want to slow them down (they can be eliminated,
>believe it or not), this is what I did to an older six-cylinder Chevy
>that ran well, but leaked all over the place.  Clean the engine
>internally with a can of Motor Flush; follow the directions carefully,
>then change oil with a cheap grade of oil and filter, run the engine for
>twenty minutes at 1500 rpms and change the oil with a good grade of oil
>and filter.  Add a can of Oil Stop Leak.  While you're changing the oil,
>check the filler plug gasket, or apply some thread tape to it.  Check the
>ones on the gearbox and the rear-end as well.
>
>Check to make sure that your PCV or equivalent is working (I tried for
>two days to stop a leak on mine and it turned out the PCV was toast and
>air pressure was forcing oil out).
>
>Clean the exterior of the engine thoroughly with a high pressure hose,
>degreaser, etc, etc.  Clean it again.  Remove all the ancillary
>components (alternator, etc) and clean it again.  Use compressed air to
>remove all the water.
>
>Run the engine for a bit to warm it through and crawl under it with a
>drop light from many different angle to find where it is leaking.  'Snug
>up' all the bolts first. 
>
>If this does not stop/slow the leak, clean the area of the leak
>thoroughly with carb cleaner or the equivalent and apply a thin bead of
>silicone directly into the area of the gasket edge (between the mating
>surfaces).  Force it in with a wet finger, let it set, then repeat.
>
>This will cure or at least temporarily fix/slow down the problem, but it
>does nothing for the front and rear seals.  If they're leaking, you might
>as well replace them all...
>
>Seriously, I would consider pulling the engine, buying the gasket/seal
>set, and replacing them all.  You can do it over one good weekend with
>hand tools, though you may have to rent a hoist.
>
>The plus side is that you know everything is good, you can inspect the
>lower end, and you can clean and paint everything.  A clean engine
>compartment is a joy to work on.
>
>Hope this helps.
>
>Luck,
>
>Rich


Larry & Janet
78 Midget


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