James,
The order I'd tackle your brake problem in:
Bleed brakes (I can strongly recommend Speedbleeders, which have to be
ordered from the States, but they are not expensive and make the job much
easier)
Adjust rear brakes - it is surprising how often this needs doing (more often
than I ever do it, which is probably every 5-8K miles or so), and surprising
how effective it is. It is also a free repair!
Replace pads - I use standard pads and find they stop Daffy fine. They only
need replacing if they are worn out, pads work just as well throughout their
life until they are completely gone.
Check rear shoes, and replace if necessary. They don't need replacing often
- particularly if you don't adjust them frequently! However, if grease has
made it into the area where the shoes sit while the hubs were being greased,
the grease may have containated the shoes - don't know if this gets burned
or worn off eventually.
Replace flexible hoses - I got some steel braided ones from TRGB, and was
astounded by the difference they made. Pedal travel noticeably reduced (a
quarter of my travel was probably just being used up pumping up the hoses!),
sooner bite, although slightly less feel (the 'give' in the pipes gave a
more gradual take-up of braking effectiveness).
I honestly cannot say how much more effective the fancy brake pads are,
having never tried them. All I know is that with the brakes properly
adjusted, bled, and the steel braided hoses, I am entirely happy with the
braking effectiveness of my car. Yes, I have to press harder than modern
cars due to the lack of servo (although you can get a kit...), but when I
press hard the brakes have no problem stopping the car, and they can lock
the wheels on a dry road. There is plenty of space left between the pedal
and the floor with me pressing hard enough to lock the wheels.
I too have no other non-servo'd car to compare with - even my MG BGT had
servo'd brakes...
Richard & Daffy
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