I'm probably just being predjudiced due to the thought
of putting some German built piece of engineering into
my British vehicle. Plastic would probably make the
unit quite light, and I think (but not sure) that my
friend had a Jeep with a plastic radiator top and
bottom.
I guess if you're going to put a Japanese
engine/drivetrain (Ro-spit) into a Spitfire, you don't
really have that racist/manufacturist(?) attitude.
It's bad enough that I have bastardized my car with a
GM alternator and an Italian made steering wheel
(Grant), not to mention an American driver!
The cooling system is a bit far off anyhow. I need to
deal with the engine first. I just want to make sure I
have all my ducks in a row.
-Terry
--- Nolan Penney <npenney@mde.state.md.us> wrote:
>
> Plumbing it should be straight forward. Just go to
> a parts store and spend some time admiring the
> molded radiator hoses until you find one with the
> right bends. No big deal, and what you already have
> to do to replace stock Spitfire hoses anyhow.
> With the built in electric fan, clearances aren't a
> problem.
>
> As for not liking plastic bits on a radiator, why
> don't you? They work just fine. Typically they are
> light and stronger then metal.
>
> I don't know why you consider cross flow inferior.
> In every way, it is superior to a vertical flow
> radiator.
>
> >>> Terry Thompson <firespiter@yahoo.com> 02/13
> 10:54 PM >>>
>
> The only rabbit radiators I can find are right
> intake/outlet, and I just can't see it making an
> easy
> mate to the stock spit thermostat housing which
> points
> drastically away from the right. And I'm not too
> keen
> on plastic bits on the radiator.
> I'm starting to lean towards Chris Sharps idea of
> recoring.
> I'd considered the 24 x 18.5" chevy aluminum, but I
> think the 18.5" height is just too high, and the
> tanks
> are on the sides as compared to the top and bottom,
> which is questionable for the purposes of mounting
> the
> stabalizing bars.
>
> -Terry
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