ok...
Take the original and lay it down and trace around it onto the masonite.
Cut it out via saber saw. Make it too big by about 1/4 inch all around.
Cut the holes with a 1/8 inch drill based on the original.
Locate the holes and verify (by installing it) that they work with your
hardware. I used nickel plated stainless steel with a cup washer for that
"finished" look.
Take a contiguous piece of veneer (bought at a local woodworking shop) and
transfer the trace onto it. I trace directly on the veneer. Use a DULL
pencil. You need to trace on the wood side of the veneer, not the back
side.
Determine you are going to LEAVE the line on the cut. Leave it by about 1/4
inch or maybe 3/8's. Saber saws cut on the up stroke, so you'll have a some
tearout of the grain...hence the need to leave the line.
A coat of contact cement on both the BACKSIDE of the veneer and the cockpit
side of the masonite. Let sit while you drink 1/2 beer (or 15 minutes
whichever is first).
Clear a sizeable portion of the floor. You really want the masonite to be
FLAT.
Lay the masonite down, and then place the veneer on it. FWIW, I have my
workmate and a piece of 1/2 inch marine grade plywood about 4x6 for a
surface.
You have to have the lineup correct the first time. No second chances with
contact cement (duh...that how it get's its' name). Use a suitable (read
rolling pin) tool to press FROM THE MIDDLE OUT. Try to get about 25 psi on
all surfaces, and don't leave any bubbles. 25 psi is not all that much if
you are using a rolling pin.
Drink the other 1/2 of the beer. Being dedicated to patience, drink another
beer.
The point here is to wait a good hour. Over night is better. Don't drive
home after the 3rd or 4th beer.
The next day, trim the veneer with you handy-dandy x-acto knife. Don't use
a razor blade, box knife, or other nifty tool. Do yourself a favor (the
veneer can be expensive) and go buy an hobby knife kit. Don't try to trim
the veneer all at once. Creep up on it. Have a beer. AFter the first few
trimming cuts, you will notice that the x-acto knifes are really sharp.
After applying the band-aids, and cleaning up the blood, re-dedicate
yourself to patience and taking this slow. Even going slow, you won't take
but about 3 beers for the entire job. The veneer will trim best going with
the grain, so learn to recognize the grain changes and don't go against it,
or you'll be drinking bourbon and trying to explain the deep cuts and the
ruined panel.
After you get it PDC (pretty damn close) sand the EDGES of the veneer down
to finish size with 220 grit. Don't give in to the temptation to have at it
with anything rougher. Don't use power tools.
Put a piece of masking tape over the location in the veneer where the drill
will poke through. This is help prevent grain tearout when the drill comes
through.
Lay the panel veneer side down on your worksurface. Using a SHARP drill,
drill the holes for the fasteners. GO SLOWLY or you will learn all about
grain tearout inspite of the masking tape.
Sand the veneer with 220 grit. NO POWER TOOLS. The veneer is only about
1/32 thick.
Hey, have a beer, you did a great job.
I use mineral oil (like you put on cutting boards...you do make your own
don't you?) because it water proofs the wood (veneer). And I painted the
backside of the panel with good old American Rustoleum gray primer. If you
get really antsy you can also use a brush on polyurethane finish, but there
is too much chance of bubbles and such. I like the grain enhancement of the
mineral oil, and after you're done with that, you can simply use Orange or
Lemon oil to refinish it; and a light sanding will take out the minor dings
of life.
FWIW, I redid my fasia panels also (used the original wood not masonite),
and I matched the veneer on all three sections using this method (although
the 1/4 inch over cut can't be done on the edges of the center section faces
on all three pieces).
My cockpit rear and fascia are all white oak with 3 coats of mineral oil,
and 3 coats of hand-rubbed Lemon Oil. Looks really nice. And matches front
and rear.
Masonite is less than $7 bucks for a 4x4 piece, precut at Home Depot.
Veneer will be the expensive part, but I paid about $30 for the veneer, a
pint of contact cement and $12 for the hobby knife set. Veneer runs from
about $3/ft (12x12 inches).
For those who really want something unique, I would pick the birds-eye
maple, or maybe the zebra wood or the purple heart. Those were about
$20/ft. A good wood outlet will have you drooling. I think the white oak I
bought was about $4.50/ft.
John
'75 Spit
>WOW!!! Sounds really cool! How did you do it? Was it as difficult as doing
a dash? My >rear panel is really nice (under all the dust and the boot
cover)-so, if it's an easy >project, I could have an 'everyday panel' (the
one that's there.) And a dressy, >'show' .panel to mathc the fascia!
Details?
>>FWIW, I did the panel at the rear of the cockpit in the same material
>>although I veneered oak onto it. I think that looks so cool. Matches my
>>fascia.
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