Hi Brent,
It sounds like the "original" electronic ignition system on your car
has already been replaced which is not unusual. It would not otherwise
work with the drive resistor (on air pump bracket) partially
disconnected.
You can safely ignore this resistor, it serves no purpose now.
I would try and determine exactly what ignition system is presently
in your car. It will have some wires attached to the coil that are
not "factory", or possibly someone has retrofitted points to the
distributor.
Whether or not your coil is internally ballasted is irrelevant to the
matter you are currently involved with.
(see "Ballast Resistor" and "internal coil resistance" paragraphs on
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/ignition.html
if you want all the gory details.)
What's important is whether your coil is _supplied_ with a ballasted
voltage source. This can be determined by measuring the voltage at
the coil (as you have done). I'm a bit confused by your measurments
though:
//
> > The test indicates
> > that coil votage should drop below 8 v in the "on" key position but mine
> > drops to 9.3 v (from 11.5 in the "off" key position)
//
9.3V does look like a "reduced" voltage from the battery indicating that
you (still) have the ballast resistance wire in circuit. You should
measure 0V with the key off however. Where does the 11.5V come from?
Can you describe the coil in your car? Look for writing on the coil
that says it should be used in a ballasted system only. This will
answer the question also.
Hope this helps,
Bob
--
LBC'ing U,
Bob (& Spitfires)
[digest mode]
http://home.att.net/~stan.part
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