I put a 19 row oil cooler on my GT6. It seems to over cool the engine a
bit. I have a thermostat in line, At highway speed the car come up to the 1
/ 2 way mark on the temperature gauge then drops back just a bit. I think
this is when the oil cooler thermostat fully opens. The problem I have is
the thermostat does not seem to close up quickly. When I get into city
traffic the gauge drops to the 1 / 4 mark. Without the oil cooler the car
ran at the 3 / 4 mark most of the time. The interior of the car would get
unpleasantly hot. Yes, I suspect I have some problem with the engine. It
has a nasty rattle that sounds like it is coming from the timing belt cover
area. The rattle seems to be in full swing at anything above 3000 rpm. I
have no idea what the problem is just yet.
Dave C
Spit 6
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Curry [SMTP:spitlist@gte.net]
Sent: Saturday, September 25, 1999 11:31 AM
To: Ted Schumacher
Cc: Terry L. Thompson; wizardz; Spitfire List
Subject: Re: Oil coolers and rocker feeders
Ted Schumacher wrote:
>
> ok, here's my $.02 worh. first on the coolers. a cooler used to
compensate
> for an internal engine problem or a cooling system problem is not
beneficial,
> it's a bandaid. if all systems are good and you really have a
high oil temp
> (drive the car hard for a few miles and immediately pull the
filter and stick a
> thermometer into the filter for oil temp) install a cooler. we
sell coolers and
> lines but do not sell a pre-plumbed "kit" the kit forces you to
put the cooler
> where somebody else deciced it needed to be. also we caustion
against using the
> "sandwich" type cooler take-off that fits between the block adn
the filter. this
> puts the filter too close to the suspension upright and forces you
to use a
> small filter.
I'll second that! However, it is difficult to find any other type
being
sold by the "major" suppliers. I'll bet you can tell us where we
can
get a different type! If you do use the sandwiched type, be
absolutely sure that the hoses are securely tied away from the
steering
coupler. Otherwise the coupler will chafe through the hose and the
oil
comes out that place in a big hurry! (Don't ask how I know).
a 10 row cooler is more than adequate for a street driven car
> even with perfomrance engine mods. DO NOT BUY A USED OIL
COOLER!!!!! since it
> is not possible to clean out a cooler completely - it's aluminum
and cannot be
> "boiled" as you would boil a cast iron block - if the cooler had
ever been on an
> engine that had a blowup (bad rod bearing, broken piston, etc) the
particles are
> resting in the bottom of the cooler. the oil flow carries these
particles in
> suspension. when the engine was shut down, the particles fall to
the bottom of
> the cooler. rebuild the engine, start up and presto, the oil
picks up the
> particles adn there goes the engine. remeber you are working with
bearing
> clearances in the .0015" to .002" category. one .003" particle of
aluminum will
> wipe out a bearing.
> early spits had a "windage tray stock. this was a piece of fine
screen for lack
> of a better description that filled the area over the deep portion
of the pan.
> windage trays keep the oil from splashing up so the throws of the
crankshaft
> will go through these sprays of oil this robs power. example, for
$16 you can
> buy a windage tray for a big block dodge. installation gives 12 hp
increase on a
> dyno just because the crank does not encounter the drag of
fighting its way
> through the oil spray. remeber, the engine becomes an air pum in
the oil pan
> from the force of the pistons moving down and pushing a volume of
air into the
> pan. very similar to being is a subway statiion andyou can feel
the air
> arriving before you see the train. ted
Very good assessment Ted!
Joe
--
"If you can't excel with talent, triumph with effort."
-- Dave Weinbaum in National Enquirer
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