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Re: Rebuilding Spitfire Disk Calipers

To: "Bruce Hestand" <hestand@ultranet.com>, <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Rebuilding Spitfire Disk Calipers
From: "James Carpenter" <james.carpenter@jccsystems.swinternet.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 1999 00:39:15 +0100
Bruce,

First of, I know what you are going through replaceing the front right wheel
bearing turned into a complete suspension and brake overhaul.  This ended up
taking 9 months, about a month off in total with sorting out things which
suddenly went wrong.  i.e. front right suspension vertical link brakeing,
under unusual conditions.


You can't take the brake calipers apart unless you know what you are doing.
i.e. you are guring or lockhead approved specialist.  They can get there
hands on the correct tencile grade bolts, and the torque specs for
tightening the bolts.  Failer of these components can lead to unwanted
Spitfire takeoff (from a cliff).  The actual seals inside I believe are
rubber 'O' rings and are easy to replace.   One of the Pratical Classics
team took apart there 4 pot upgrade calipers to add widening sections for
vented disks, and used new bolts and based the torque for these bolts on
data from the bolt manifacturas and other sources.  But if your insurance
company got wind of the work you did on any calipers you may find yourself
uninsured for any accident.  Personaly I would trust my work more than a lot
of the work done by some so called profesionals.

Anyway you can blow out your caliper pistons, put a bit of wood in to stop
them blowing out all way.  Clap that bit of wood against one piston so it
doent move then, push the one you blue almost out back and do the same to
the other.  Now you can remove that one, then pull out the other.   The
pistons need replaceing it there is serious corosion (enough to cause
problems, you have to work that out anyone who says that will be OK could be
sued).

I used extream high temperature paint on my brake calipers.  This was a
mistake, a couple of months in and they look scruffy and realy poor.  My
preferance is for something like hammerite, that type of paint.  You need to
use a wire brush, I find the ones you put on an angle grinder best, if youve
got a compresser you could use one of thoes recirculating sand blasting
nozels.  Then use a rust cure, with acid in it.    Then you will need to
clean it, blow out the passage ways with compressed air.  Brush on the
paint, black on the calipers to radiate heat better.  The inside of the
pistons should be painted white to stop adsorbsion of heat from the brake
pads.  Use new bleed nipples, take care of the face which the copper washer
couples.

No spell checker still, hmm a degree in computing and I still cant get the
thing working!

Hope that helps

James




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