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RE: Oil pan gasket, and misc.

To: "'Spitfire mail list'" <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Oil pan gasket, and misc.
From: "Childs, David" <dchilds@epri.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 10:50:56 -0400
About draining the Diff.

When I did it I pulled the diff right out and put it back in.  Not the
easiest way to do it but I had to remove it for other reasons anyway.  Does
anyone have a suggestion for 'sucking' the fluid out?  Can you drain it by
removing the bottom most bolt?

Dave C
79 Spit 6

        -----Original Message-----
        From:   Dave Chu [SMTP:dave@ece.concordia.ca]
        Sent:   Monday, June 14, 1999 10:31 AM
        To:     Bowley, Glenn (GC CT)
        Cc:     'Spitfire mail list'
        Subject:        Re: Oil pan gasket, and misc. 




        In message <ED8EF88F1CC7D011A9F500805FC1A051E370E0@EXCHANGE>you
write:
        >
        >Hi all-
        >I was wondering If anyone knew if it was possible to replace the
oil pan
        >gasket on my 1975 1500 with the motor in the car. Are there any
special
        >techniques, rotation of the crank, loosening of the motor mounts to
jack-up
        >the engine, etc. I was trying to curtail the oil seepage around the
pan
        >gasket yesterday after finding a few of the bolts loose, but
tightening them
        >didn't do the trick, now I'm going to do it the right way!

           You don't need to do anything special, just jack the front of the
car up
           and use jack stands.  There are bolts of different length, just
keep track
           where they came from.  The manual says smear grease onto the both
side of
           the new gasket.  But, I seems to remember some discussion on the
list about
           the pros and cons on using silicon instead.  Anyone remember what
was the
           consenses?

        >I guess I had better check the thrust washer situation while I'm in
there!
        >
           Yes, it's a good ideal to check the play on the thrust washer.
I've done
           that with a digital caliper.   I was under the car with a large
           screwdriver and a helper in the driver seat.  I pry back the
crank via
           the pully with the screwdriver.   I then wedge and zero the
caliper
           between the pully and the front frame member.  At this point I
ask the
           the helper to depress the clutch pedel and the amount of movement
is
           indicated on the caliper.  I did this about 7 times and the
measurments
           ranged from .003-.005" within tolerance of .004-.008".  I know
that is
           not the most accurate way to measure this but I just use what I
had on
           hand to do this.


        >Second question is, has anyone ever tried to change the
differential oil? I
        >didn't see a drain plug on the bottom of the unit to let the old
stuff out.
        >You must have to use an oil suction gun to get the old oil out?

          Yes, the only was to get the oil out without openning the diff. is
to
          suck it out.

        >
        >Final question ( I promise!), does anybody have a preferred
supplier for a
        >replacement heater valve? I've seen a lot of talk about inferior
quality of
        >replacement heater valves. I was even contemplating putting a valve
on from
        >a Japanese car (GASP!), as these are made out of plastic and seem
to last
        >forever.

          Can't help you there maybe someone else on the list can give you
that info.

        Dave                                                  |\ |     | |

        Dave Chu                                 \/  \/       | /|     | |  
        Dept. of Elec. & Comp. Eng.                           |/ |     | |

        Concordia University              Voice:(514)848-3115
Fax:(514)848-2802 
        1455 de Maisonneuve W. H961       Email:dave@ece.concordia.ca
        Montreal, Quebec, Canada H3G 1M8
http://www.ece.concordia.ca/~dave/addr.html
        
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