I agree with Gregs way of timing, just make sure when you set the timing you
stay
with that octane gas, makes a big difference in performance and pinking.
Growe58@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 6/2/99 7:36:04 AM EST, CraigS@iewc.com writes:
>
> > Question to the list.
> >
> > One of my employees has a 1980 MGB ( I tried to talk him in to a REAL car )
> > It has the smog stuff off of it, he is running a Weber downdraft with
> > headers, he has a crane electronic ignition.
> >
> > The question is the if standard timing should be 10 degrees with all the
> > smog stuff what should it be with all that removed ?
> >
> > I have heard that BL retarded the timing to help with the emissions, we are
> > lucky enough not worry about the emissions right now. He is looking for
> max
> > power timing setting.
> >
> > What is it ?
> >
> Advance it two degrees and road test under severe conditions (accelerating up
> hill at low rpms). If it doesn't knock or ping, advance it another two
> degrees. Repeat
> until knocking/pinging can just be heard. I believe that this is called
> "power timing"
> and, emissions issues aside, is a good way to optimally time, taking into
> account
> individual engine characteristics like carbon deposits, worn vacuum or
> mechanical
> advance etc.
>
> IM_V_HO, I don't think that your employee is going to be able to push much
> more
> advance than 10BTDC (it is 10BTDC and not 10ATDC, yes?) anyway.
>
> Just my thoughts, this is how I've done it on my own car. I'd be interested
> to hear
> if my fellow/fellowette listers agree...
>
> -Greg
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