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Re: [Shop-talk] led tubes and short memory

To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] led tubes and short memory
From: Donald H Locker <dhlocker@protonmail.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2022 17:13:51 +0000 s=protonmail2; t=1641921238; bh=69B+euX/KWS/iGgXsWjCiLAE080LtTXS1Qwx56OgyzI=; h=Date:To:From:Reply-To:Subject:Message-ID:In-Reply-To:References: From:To:Cc; b=NCclaJivFtzq1mW1tj5FII+2ocXX1PGAduCHkE6u4OcSo0WzNA/w8sxbJbCpT39Tu 5TonOl7I/ThObk14irFor0II2LSM8mmlgPbIWLPz3qMFonAlm8M/uwuO0hzzXngPwn 1lRm8XtnIc6QxXWYcTJ7+riYYT7nBRxxQI+Q8zRMnBZUDkoxohm5qm5stAbZ6AJUsj +ofXA8McDf5ypZpj4xwIz8Xm33J5a65vsu4ShTK3ERZ4OjvDIavJcr0Xsmhlv4S3ur n7IskwtA62EMttpTr5T1MnGTYZ3eUnWEVTu2bsxX255ebju/PyM5rbU7uoQG5jiGRU tncDsZ8PWRkFA==
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[I'd intended to reply to the list and clicked the wrong button. Here it
is again, Bob.]

If you have "tombstones" (the end fittings into which the tubes are
plugged) that are for two-prongs (called "bi-pin") you'll have to get
the bi-pin tubes to fit. The single-post tombstones are completely
different, as are the tubes.

Be aware that T12 (1.5in diameter tubes) and most T8 (1.0in diameter
tubes) commonly use "medium bi-pin" spacing, while T5 and _some_ T8 use
a closer spacing. Best to measure the spacing on you fluorescent tubes
before committing to a pile of LED tubes.

HTH,
Donald.

On 2022-01-11 11:44 a.m., Bob Spidell wrote:
> I thought I had it figured out, but what's the difference in designation
> between older tubes with 2 small prongs on one end, and the newer style
> with one fat prong? It seems they're both called 'TX,' with 'X' being 8,
> 12, etc.
>
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074M8KCJ1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>
> vs.
>
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074MC1FW3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>
>
> On 1/11/2022 4:57 AM, old dirtbeard wrote:
>> The primary advantage of converting an existing fluorescent fixture to
>> LED is that it is already there, wired, has the sockets, etc.
>>
>> I converted all of the 8' fluorescent lights in my garage years ago
>> from magnetic ballast to electronic ballast and it was a good
>> investment for me at the time (used less power, lights started faster,
>> there was less flicker, less noise, worked better in the cold, erc.).
>>
>> A couple years ago I converted all of them again to LED bulbs by just
>> removing the electronic ballasts and inserting 8' LED bulbs for all
>> the reasons previously stated. I gave all of the electronic ballasts
>> to a friend who was still using fluorescent 8' tubes with magnetic
>> ballasts. These are the bulbs I used and I am completely satisfied
>> with them:
>> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074MC1FW3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>> <https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074MC1FW3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1>
>>
>> You do not need to remove the ballast, just wire the sockets directly
>> to the 110VAC lines. It could not be easier.
>>
>> Here are 4' LED bulbs that I used for some other locations around the
>> house in the existing fluorescent sockets for the same reasons:
>> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074M8KCJ1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>> <https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074M8KCJ1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1>
>>
>> Again, the primary reason for using the replacement LEDs is that you
>> only have to change the bulbs and bypass the ballast. It is really
>> easy to do and the technology is the same. You are just reusing the
>> existing mounts.
>>
>> If I were starting fresh, from scratch, yes, I would just use the
>> direct mount LEDs that Mark is advocating. There is no need for the
>> reflectors as the LED lights do not emit 360 degree light, they can be
>> purchased in 90 degree or 120 degree spread if you desire.
>>
>> best,
>> doug
>>
>>

[snip]

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