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And to complete this one too:
The leaf blower had bad compression. Either a worn ring, piston, or
cylinder. I didn't take it apart to find out which because Troy Bilt only
sells the piston and ring and not the cylinder--if the cylinder is worn,
it's garbage and the piston is only sold as part of a short
block--literally you pull the cylinder off the old one and everything else
is new, apparently.
I might take it apart this winter and see if it's the piston or ring--it
hurts my heart to just toss that much metal and plastic in the trash--but I
haven't looked to see if the specs are available online yet to even know
what they should be.
The takeaway here for future searchers is NOT to buy Troy Bilt, apparently.
I tried to take it to shops locally to repair it. None of them would even
look at it and every single one said to buy an Echo. So I'm off to buy an
Echo this morning. Also disappointed the parts aren't available and that
it's so worn. On the one hand, I *did* get several years out of it. On the
other, it had its oil, filters, etc. changed regularly and it wasn't used
heavily.
On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 2:33 PM Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
wrote:
> I have a Troy Bilt 4-cycle backpack leaf blower, the older version of this
> thing:
>
>
> https://www.troybilt.com/en_US/leaf-blowers/tb4bp-ec-backpack-gas-leaf-blower/41BR4BEG766.html
>
>
> I need intelligent more experienced folks to advise me before I slip into
> insanity.
>
> The past year or so the choke has lost effectiveness--you used to start it
> as directed: pump the primer bulb a few times, choke on full. Start. Choke
> to 1/2 until warm, then choke full-off.
>
> At first it wouldn't start with choke full-on, I had to start it on
> half-choke. Then 1/4-ish.
>
> At the same time, the throttle became more of an an/off switch. It would
> bog at anything other than idle. If I open it full, it would die. And it
> never achieved full-power.
>
> Note: the choke is an actual choke--a plastic plate slides over the air
> intake on the carb.
>
> This sounds like something that needs a carb cleanin', right? So I did.
> Took it apart, soaked it in carb cleaner, re-assembled.
>
> I also replaced the fuel intake line and fuel filter--a weird little
> thing, looks like a pumice stone on the end of the fuel line.
>
> Worked...better. Not back to new, but better. For a day.
>
> Now it won't start at all.
>
> There's just not that much to this carb. I blew it out with compressed
> air, chased the passages I could, etc. There's just not much there...there.
>
> What's making me question my sanity is that this happened on my riding
> mower last year too and I similarly cleaned that carb, which was similarly
> simple and it absolutely would not run again until I just bought a new carb
> and replaced it.
>
> So here's the question: what am I doing or not doing that I can't clean a
> small engine carburetor? Is there some secret air passage on small engine
> carbs that I'm not reaching? I tool them completely apart. There were no
> idle jets, or enrichment circuits, or...whatever. Just a hunk of metal with
> a few small holes. What on earth would make the new one better than the one
> that's on there?
>
> I feel like this should be so simple and I'm missing something so basic.
>
--0000000000007e649f05b26ab399
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr">And to complete this one too:<div><br></div><div>The leaf =
blower had bad compression. Either a worn ring, piston, or cylinder. I didn=
't take it apart to find out which because Troy Bilt only sells the pis=
ton and ring and not the cylinder--if the cylinder is worn, it's garbag=
e and the piston is only sold as part of a short block--literally you pull =
the cylinder off the old one and everything else is new, apparently.</div><=
div><br></div><div>I might take it apart this winter and see if it's th=
e piston or ring--it hurts my heart to just toss that much metal and plasti=
c in the trash--but I haven't looked to see if the specs are available =
online yet to even know what they should be.</div><div><br></div><div>The t=
akeaway here for future searchers is NOT to buy Troy Bilt, apparently. I tr=
ied to take it to shops locally to repair it. None of them would even look =
at it and every single one said to buy an Echo. So I'm off to buy an Ec=
ho this morning. Also disappointed the parts aren't available and that =
it's so worn. On the one hand, I *did* get several years out of it. On =
the other, it had its oil, filters, etc. changed regularly and it wasn'=
t used heavily.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div =
dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 2:33 PM Scott Hall=
<<a href=3D"mailto:scott.hall.personal@gmail.com";>scott.hall.personal@g=
mail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D=
"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-le=
ft:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">I have a Troy Bilt 4-cycle backpack leaf blower, t=
he older version of this thing:<div><br></div><div><a href=3D"https://www.t=
roybilt.com/en_US/leaf-blowers/tb4bp-ec-backpack-gas-leaf-blower/41BR4BEG76=
6.html" target=3D"_blank">https://www.troybilt.com/en_US/leaf-blowers/tb4bp=
-ec-backpack-gas-leaf-blower/41BR4BEG766.html</a>=C2=A0</div><div><br></div=
><div>I need intelligent more experienced folks to advise me before I slip =
into insanity.</div><div><br></div><div>The past year or so the choke has l=
ost effectiveness--you used to start it as directed: pump the primer bulb a=
few times, choke on full. Start. Choke to 1/2 until warm, then choke full-=
off.</div><div><br></div><div>At first it wouldn't start with choke ful=
l-on, I had to start it on half-choke. Then 1/4-ish.=C2=A0</div><div><br></=
div><div>At the same time, the throttle became more of an an/off switch. It=
would bog at anything other than idle. If I open it full, it would die. An=
d it never achieved full-power.</div><div><br></div><div>Note: the choke is=
an actual choke--a plastic plate slides over the air intake on the carb.</=
div><div><br></div><div>This sounds like something that needs a carb cleani=
n', right? So I did. Took it apart, soaked it in carb cleaner, re-assem=
bled. </div><div><br></div><div>I also replaced the fuel intake line and fu=
el filter--a weird little thing, looks like a pumice stone on the end of th=
e fuel line.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>Worked...better. Not back to ne=
w, but better. For a day.=C2=A0=C2=A0<br></div><div><br></div><div>Now it w=
on't start at all.</div><div><br></div><div>There's just not that m=
uch to this carb. I blew it out with compressed air, chased the passages I =
could, etc. There's just not much there...there.</div><div><br></div><d=
iv>What's making me question my sanity is that this happened on my ridi=
ng mower last year too and I similarly cleaned that carb, which was similar=
ly simple and it absolutely would not run again until I just bought a new c=
arb and replaced it.</div><div><br></div><div>=C2=A0So here's the quest=
ion: what am I doing or not doing that I can't clean a small engine car=
buretor? Is there some secret air passage on small engine carbs that I'=
m not reaching? I tool them completely apart. There were no idle jets, or e=
nrichment circuits, or...whatever. Just a hunk of metal with a few small ho=
les. What on earth would make the new one better than the one that's on=
there?</div><div><br></div><div>I feel like this should be so simple and I=
'm missing something so basic.=C2=A0<br></div></div>
</blockquote></div>
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