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Re: [Shop-talk] Radiant heat for garage

To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Radiant heat for garage
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2016 08:13:36 -0400 03/16/2016 08:13:39, Serialize complete at 03/16/2016 08:13:39
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <92415519-1355-4986-A14B-EC07ECC6777F@gmail.com>
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Ok, I might be in the minority here, but I can't say enough good about 
radiant floor heat.

First, if you are near NJ, there is a plumbing company that I worked with 
"George's Plumbing" that were on the cutting edge of RF heat.

My installation- 2600 sq ft detached garage (Not a typo), in North West 
New Jersey.  New construction, Lester building (wood frame, steel skin.) 
Blown cellulose ceiling insulation, blown ploy insulation on the walls. 6' 
4500psi concrete floor.

Instead of putting in a new furnace, I added a zone to my home oil furnace 
for the garage and buried the insulated lines. No additional heating 
source in the garage, nor any heating equipment on the floor in there 
either.  Only a wall mounted controller board that feeds the tubes in the 
floor.  Tekmak controller.

I keep it 55 degrees all the time.  I find this is the perfect 
temperature, as once I start working in the garage, its nice and cool.

Since installing the floor (13 years ago), there has not been a noticeable 
increase in oil consumption (I notified my oil company to modify 'degree 
days' for my auto delivery, but they never had to change the use rate.)

Some of the major things that worked awesome for me.  There is a new 
(then) installation that gets put on the ground before you pour.  It looks 
like bubble wrap that is made from mylar, awesome stuff!  I also went with 
Pex tubing, easy and cheap to work with.

As for laying the pipes, you want to use the little 'chairs' to hold them 
off the bottom of the ground, and you want the pipes much tighter near the 
edges of the building and there can be lots of space between them in the 
middle of the building.

Once you lay the pipe (and before the pour) take photos and measurement of 
the layout.  This way if you need to break the floor for something, you 
know where the pipes are.*  I knew I was installing a lift, so I left the 
area for the posts open.

The TekMak  controller has about 5 sensors to determine the optimal 
heating.  It can also circulate the water in the floor without going back 
to the boiler to evenly heat the floor and not draw more energy.

In the end, the system has been FLAWLESS.  I would NOT change a thing 
(except make the garage 3X as big!)  8>)

Here are a few pics of the layout, and the controler board.
http://tinyurl.com/radiantgarageheat 

*=since then, I've bought a IR camera and I can use that to find any pipe 
if needed.

Please feel free to ask me any other questions and I'll help you out if I 
can.

Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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<font size=2 face="sans-serif">Ok, I might be in the minority here, but
I can't say enough good about radiant floor heat.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">First, if you are near NJ, there is
a plumbing company that I worked with &quot;George's Plumbing&quot; that
were on the cutting edge of RF heat.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">My installation- 2600 sq ft detached
garage (Not a typo), in North West New Jersey. &nbsp;New construction,
Lester building (wood frame, steel skin.) &nbsp;Blown cellulose ceiling
insulation, blown ploy insulation on the walls. &nbsp;6' 4500psi concrete
floor.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Instead of putting in a new furnace,
I added a zone to my home oil furnace for the garage and buried the insulated
lines. No additional heating source in the garage, nor any heating equipment
on the floor in there either. &nbsp;Only a wall mounted controller board
that feeds the tubes in the floor. &nbsp;Tekmak controller.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I keep it 55 degrees all the time. &nbsp;I
find this is the perfect temperature, as once I start working in the garage,
its nice and cool.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Since installing the floor (13 years
ago), there has not been a noticeable increase in oil consumption (I notified
my oil company to modify 'degree days' for my auto delivery, but they never
had to change the use rate.)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Some of the major things that worked
awesome for me. &nbsp;There is a new (then) installation that gets put
on the ground before you pour. &nbsp;It looks like bubble wrap that is
made from mylar, awesome stuff! &nbsp;I also went with Pex tubing, easy
and cheap to work with.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">As for laying the pipes, you want to
use the little 'chairs' to hold them off the bottom of the ground, and
you want the pipes much tighter near the edges of the building and there
can be lots of space between them in the middle of the building.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Once you lay the pipe (and before the
pour) take photos and measurement of the layout. &nbsp;This way if you
need to break the floor for something, you know where the pipes are.* &nbsp;I
knew I was installing a lift, so I left the area for the posts open.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">The TekMak &nbsp;controller has about
5 sensors to determine the optimal heating. &nbsp;It can also circulate
the water in the floor without going back to the boiler to evenly heat
the floor and not draw more energy.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">In the end, the system has been FLAWLESS.
&nbsp;I would NOT change a thing (except make the garage 3X as big!) 
&nbsp;8&gt;)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Here are a few pics of the layout, and
the controler board.</font>
<br><a href=http://tinyurl.com/radiantgarageheat><font size=1 color=blue 
face="Verdana"><b>http://tinyurl.com/radiantgarageheat</b></font></a><font 
size=3>
</font><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
*=since then, I've bought a IR camera and I can use that to find any pipe
if needed.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Please feel free to ask me any other
questions and I'll help you out if I can.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400
Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
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