Not that difficult - I sleeved the main cylinder bore of a brake servo -
steel sleeve into an ally alloy casting. Made the sleeve a close slide
fit, held with Loctite, but it couldn't go anywhere as it was trapped in
place once the servo was assembled. The one thing I did do was to get it
honed before sliding it in - so that it was easy to hone all the way to
the end.
Making a new oversized piston is probably not a good idea - the larger
bore would mess up the throw of the slave cylinder. Certainly could be
overcome, but I think it would be easy to make a straight sleeve anyway.
Neil
On 29/08/2012 20:22, Gerald Brazil wrote:
> A nice project for an amateur machinist but while you are working on it
> order a new one because your chances of getting it right on the first try
> are slim.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tr3driver@ca.rr.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 3:03 PM
> To: Shop Talk
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Sleeving a hydraulic clutch cylinder
>
> I intend to try doing my own resleeving job on the clutch MC for my 56
> Triumph TR3. Yes, I know I could send it out, but where's the fun in that?
> The old one is in decent shape overall, but the bore is worn some .045"
> oversize and the seal won't hold against such a big gap.
>
> My thought is to stand the aluminum cylinder up in the vertical mill,
> supported by big standoffs from the table to the cylinder mounting ears,
> bore the cylinder to .001" smaller than the od of some thinwall brass tubing
> with a suitable id, then use a mandrel to press the tubing into place with a
> few drops of Loctite for good measure. With any luck the brass tubing won't
> crush enough to need adjustment, but if it comes out too small, I'll ream or
> hone it to size.
>
> Any thoughts on easier, better ways to do this?
>
> Looks like I'll have to first make my own B&S #7 tail for a (new) boring
> head. Any advice on that process would be welcome as well.
>
> My thought is to mount some 12L14 in the 3-jaw; center drill and use a live
> center to support it while I machine the taper & threads for the boring head
> without moving it in the chuck, then drill & tap for the drawbar with the
> outer end unsupported. That should leave the taper & head mount perfectly
> concentric; I don't really care if the drawbar hole is a bit off.
>
> I'm a rank amateur machinist, so any words of wisdom will be welcome.
>
> --- Randall
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