Randall,
You have a handle on the sizing, but assemble it just like installing the
Throw Out bearing in your tranny. Put the cylinder in the oven and the
sleeve in the freezer. When the temperatures stabilize slip that tube right
into place. Pressing thin wall tube with that L/D will likely destroy the
sleeve.
While I can't say for sure, I seriously doubt there is any need for
locktite, as the only load on the cylinder trying to push the sleeve out is
the friction of the seal as it slides along the tube, but that is
counteracted by the load the pressure puts radially outward into the MC.
If it works, let me know. I have two of those on the shelf, but like you (I
suspect) I carry a good one in the boot at all times, since the MC is the
same for the clutch as it is for the single MC, single circuit brake system.
Later,
Jack
TR's 3&8
-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tr3driver@ca.rr.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 12:03 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Sleeving a hydraulic clutch cylinder
I intend to try doing my own resleeving job on the clutch MC for my 56
Triumph TR3. Yes, I know I could send it out, but where's the fun in that?
The old one is in decent shape overall, but the bore is worn some .045"
oversize and the seal won't hold against such a big gap.
My thought is to stand the aluminum cylinder up in the vertical mill,
supported by big standoffs from the table to the cylinder mounting ears,
bore the cylinder to .001" smaller than the od of some thinwall brass tubing
with a suitable id, then use a mandrel to press the tubing into place with a
few drops of Loctite for good measure. With any luck the brass tubing won't
crush enough to need adjustment, but if it comes out too small, I'll ream or
hone it to size.
Any thoughts on easier, better ways to do this?
Looks like I'll have to first make my own B&S #7 tail for a (new) boring
head. Any advice on that process would be welcome as well.
My thought is to mount some 12L14 in the 3-jaw; center drill and use a live
center to support it while I machine the taper & threads for the boring head
without moving it in the chuck, then drill & tap for the drawbar with the
outer end unsupported. That should leave the taper & head mount perfectly
concentric; I don't really care if the drawbar hole is a bit off.
I'm a rank amateur machinist, so any words of wisdom will be welcome.
--- Randall
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