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Re: [Shop-talk] removing #2 Philips screws

To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] removing #2 Philips screws
From: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 22:19:54 -0500 (EST)
Howdy,

On Fri, 24 Feb 2012, Brian Kemp wrote:
> I took out one row of boards last night.  I started with a small 
> screwdriver to pop out the putty, then used a broken dental pick to 
> scrape out the screw head.  I then blew it out and hammered in a P2 bit. 
> I slipped on the impact driver with a magnetic bit holder, leaned into 
> it, and pulled the trigger. 1/3 came out, 1/3 snapped, and 1/3 were too 
> rusted and stripped the head. Snapped is ok.  I then used pry bars and 
> muscle to get the boards out.  Since there is significant rot in some of 
> the joists, some came out easy.  My concern is damaging the joists that 
> are not rotted.
>
> I tried a Grabber bit, but that was a lot of work to break the head.  I'm 
> considering a small hole saw without a pilot bit to just bore around the 
> screw.  I should get far enough through the deck board that it won't offer 
> much resistance.  I also thought about trying to drill off the screw head, 
> but think that will take more effort than the hole saw.
>
> The 2x6 deck boards will not be used again, so I'm not too concerned about 
> damage to them.  I do want to do all I can to save the joists in good shape 
> since this is a cantilevered balcony and those joists hold up my second 
> floor.

I think if I didn't care about the deck boards and they were in any kinda 
bad condition, I'd be tempted to use a chisel to split the board around 
the screw.

But the holesaw idea sounds like it could work decently as well,  Try and 
be sure to leave like 1/8" or so on the bottom, so that you aren't 
fighting trying to get the damn wooden plug to eject from the holesaw as 
well.

I'd do whichever one seemed faster.

Mark
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