On Thu, Nov 24, 2011 at 11:33 AM, Peter J. Thomas <pj_thomas at comcast.net>
wrote:
> On 11/24/2011 10:19 AM, eric at megageek.com wrote:
>>
>> I'm not sure if a wood working question is appropriate here, so let me
>> know if I'm stepping outside the allowed content.
>>
>> I'm sure someone here has an answer however.
>>
>> OK, I have a nice knife block with knife set. B One of the knives was
>> replaced with a better one. B The problem is that the new knife doesn't
fit
>> in the slot on the block.
>>
>> Does anyone know how to cut/expand one of those slots in a block of wood.
>> I need to go about 7" deep?
>>
>> Failing any other solution, I was thinking of cutting the block in half
>> with a bandsaw, routing the slot, then gluing it together. B This is not
my
>> first choice however.
>>
>> Thanks guys and have a happy thanksgiving!
>
> Your approach is probably the easiest and the way the block was made in the
> first place. B Only issue I see it the kerf of the saw blade will make the
> block narrower; don't know if this is an issue for you.
>
> Only other approach is to use a mortising chisel. B Not the power mortising
> kind that like a drill press, but the old fashioned hammer and chisel.
> B http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/sorby18sashmortisechisel.aspx
>
> 1/8 inch is the narrowest I've seen. B That might be too thick? B If you
have
> a piece of bar stock the right thickness and a bench grinder you could make
> your own. B Grind a 45 degree bevel on the end and sharpen with oil stones
or
> emery cloth. B A mortising chisel is different form other chisels. B If you
> lay the mortising chisel down the bevel is on the right or left side, not
> parallel to the table like other chisels. B The idea is to widen the slot a
> fraction of an inch at a time by pounding the chisel in. B You can also
> deepen the slot with this kind of chisel.
>
1/8 is probably the narrowest practical size. They'd bend if they're
thinner. The antique ones I've seen had a pretty narrow primary edge,
maybe 20 degrees, with a steeper angle at the very tip. The shallow
angle lets the chisel go deeper with every hammer blow, and the steep
secondary angle means the tip doesn't break off.
I think this might be my method.
--
David Scheidt
dmscheidt at gmail.com
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