Assuming you cleaned out all the visible fuel passages with carb
cleaner, Check the valve seat for the fuel float. The rubber swells and
prevents proper fuel flow. Restricting the fuel flow causes you to
restrict the air to maintain proper fuel mixture. Cost of parts about $10
locally. Time to fix, about 10 minutes. Stupid me made a fool of myself
overanalyzing how the valve seat went in, but it was actually quite
simple to fix. Nevermind that I was too careful trying not to damage the
new part. I didn't seat the the part properly and went from barely running
to not running. After scratching my head for a bit, a little bit of logic and
some starting fluid pointed to fuel flow again. Once I got that fixed, the
washer worked fine at full blast again.
You can look on the Briggs website for the part numbers/diagram and
take it with you to the local shop. It will be cheaper than having it
shipped. When I went in, they knew exactly what I needed when
I pointed to it. The gasket for the fuel bowl comes in the kit as does
the gasket for the screw on the bottom of the bowl.
Brian
battmain@yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, October 17, 2009 7:50:36 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Power Washer engine question
I have a Power Washer with a 6.5 HP Briggs and Stratton engine. I bought it
about 7 years ago from Home Depot an I don't use it all that often. About 4
years ago I forgot to add Stabil to the gas before storing it away. It was a
year (or two) before I tried to use it again and, as you can imagine, it
wouldn't start. I could get it to run briefly with starting fluid, but that
was it. I just put it away, deciding I'd fix it Maqana . Maqana arrived last
weekend and I drained the now four year old gas (very yellow!), took the
carburetor apart and cleaned the jets, and re-assembled everything.
Amazingly, it started up pretty quickly when I was done! So far, so good.
It runs fairly smoothly with the choke set to "Start" and does a decent job of
power washing. However, the engine dies as soon as I move it to the "Run"
setting, regardless of how long I let it run and warm up first. I can move
the choke part way in and it continues running, but it then dies as soon as I
squeeze the washer trigger.
Before I start fooling around with the choke settings (the owner's manual is
pretty pitiful, but does indicate that the choke can be adjusted), can anyone
think of another reason for it to run like this? The choke worked fine when I
last used the washer and it doesn't seem likely to me that bad gas would
affect that adjustment.
Thanks.
Jim
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